Peg excavation / replacement

[Fultonius]

Not wanting to start a flame war about peg bolts / bolts / etc...

I know there are many knowledgeable and experienced crag custodians around here and I was wondering - what's the best approach to replace a peg if it's already pretty far gone?

There are a couple around that are really pretty bad, may or may not snap when trying to pull and have no other reliable protection nearby for when they go (either moderately or significantly increasing the danger factor on these routes and making them unbalanced (some more than others, but I'm speaking generally here).

So what's the method? Would strongly prefer not to need a drill as some are in the mountains... I have a peg hammer, loop of swaged cable (Fish Funkness, like this: https://extremegear.org/products/funkness-device-moses) and a array of other chisel type tools.

 

[andy moles]

Interested to see answers to this as well...I'm guessing there comes a point where it's simply not going to be possible without a drill? Would be great if pegs were always removed well before this point, but obviously that doesn't happen.

 

[duncan]

Probably hard, often the head snaps off as you say. Consider what your next step would be if this happens.

I'd try a combination of the funkness attached to the harness loop (may need to be extended) with the peg at waist level. Push with your legs to apply a sustained outward force on the peg. Simultaneously, tap the head of the peg side to side if in a horizontal crack, up and down in a vertical one. If some of the blade of the peg is accessible, you could try tapping the blade directly by using a chisel or centre punch which might lessen the chance of snapping the head off.

 

[SA Chris]

Centre punch is a good call, preferably a number of sizes and shapes to get as deep as you can and get some sideways movement in the crack, if possible.

 

[Fiend]

Just drill it because you're going to replace it with a """"peg""""bolt anyway ;D

(Sorry, I assume someone had to say it. Still at least it's in Scotland, the last bastion of trad where they don't bolt Mountain crags nor sea-cliffs.....)

 

[Johnny Brown]

Have limited experience but I found it was very dependent on the rock. On peak lime the combination of bendy mild steel pegs and shattered rock mean clean removal is likely impossible in some cases. The older/ more corroded the peg the less likely it will come out so there is a good case for pre-emptive replacement, although...

There are a couple around that are really pretty bad, may or may not snap when trying to pull and have no other reliable protection nearby for when they go (either moderately or significantly increasing the danger factor on these routes and making them unbalanced

Always worth a specific discussion on the routes in question imo as others opinions often vary...

 

[Bonjoy]

I've managed to remove some by side to side tapping with a hammer. I've also snapped the eyes of some trying to do this.
A bolt tester/pull-rig would be the most efficient option if it's in a flat area of rock (wouldn't work in a corner).
I think the crux these days though of replacing pegs is finding a suitable replacement. Ideally you need to carry a decent rack (not cheap or easily available) of them with you if you're to have much hope of having one suitable for the placement. Plus some knowledge of how to place properly and how to assess if your placement is any good.