[Peak][Various grit & lime][27 probs 6A-8A+]

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Bonjoy said:
Consider the beans spilled.

Good underplayed bean spillage sir.

Bonjoy said:
Crich Tors – <TBC> - 6B
A good head warmup for the main roof. Start up the groove left of the roof then gain the arete and holds on the front. The easiest exit is up the top crack of The Roof.

The left hand line on the roof is called Peak Practice 6b.

On a small buttress 50m left of the roof (mentioned in the old guide) are two new problems based on the arête.

Wind Singer 6a
Left side of the arête.

Fire Song 6a
Right side of the arête.

Both on good rock with some unusual nipple like protrusions.

Some roof footage...

https://vimeo.com/124038918
 
Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.
 
Black Asteroid is awesome but just to avoid confusion it isn't a sit start, unless you stack a good few pads.

It goes from LH on an obvious pinch/slot thing and a RH on the arete at the same height as LH. First move is the crux but next few are fumble-able and top out adds a nice bit of spice.
 
Bonjoy said:
Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.

Where abouts is Scratches at Ramshaw?
 
dave k said:
Bonjoy said:
Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.

Where abouts is Scratches at Ramshaw?


Got it - Far right hand end beyond old Fogey
 
Here’s a couple of vids of new things:

This is Gritlad giving it his all on Elephant Hawk Moth at Crich Tors
https://vimeo.com/128776511

And this is the first ascent of Wind Power at Wind Hill Farm Outcrop
https://vimeo.com/128776512
 
Blackwell Dale – Black, Sack & Crack – 7B
Continuing down dale from Black & Decker Buttress, after passing a vertical buttress you get to a bulge capped roof with a weird tufa pillar at its base. This starts in the break under the roof then crosses it at its widest and punches up slopey crimps to the obvious hanging jug rail. As good if not better than Ovine. FA Ned Feehally

Tried this briefly tonight. Cool. Felt about 7D. Though I was rubbish, a hold was wet and it felt 7D. Looks like someone else has been on it. Assume it keeps left and avoids couple of better holds right?
 
when was you there? i was there till 6 today with jon fullwood, i did two new problems on the butress, the line to the right, probably one of the best problems i've done in the peak and i also did black,sack and crack but starting on the big jugs on the right tonight, which i thought made it a little harder so going on black sack and crack being 7B+ maybe 7C and the line to the right is hard to grade as its a dyno to a crimp. if you are really tall you could probably keep your feet on but i had to jump. maybe 7C again? i have no idea
 
Didn't get out til just after 7, but only went down to BSC last thing. My sequence was: break, LH to a wet spike in roof, RF heel toe, RH flat/slopey edge, LF heel toe, LH small edge, try and get feet out, fall off, scratch head, have a Maoam's fruity chew, check Facebook, scratch head.

But there was a well tickmarked good hold just right, round the lip, which confused me about the line, hence trying to keep left.

Seemed hard, but I'll go back next week, I reckon.

Also, on Bovine, do folk actually use the wet slots or the left-trending little crimps? I was trying the latter but couldn't do the last bit.
 
My sequence. Break. Rh to slopey edge. Put left herl to in. Reach to the slopey edge not using the ear in the roof. Bump right hand to the good hold slightly more right ward. Then really big reach with left hand to the next edge with my left. (Jon had to change the heel toe cam to just a toe for this move and also right foot out right in the roof) bump your right hand down to an undercut. (Its the slopey edge i go to on the first move but upsidown.) Move right foot way out right to a smear in the roof. Left foot awkward toe hook out right (releasing the left foot to put the toe hook in is hard) then roll over with right hand to good edge (thats the crux) then flick to the jugs
 

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