[Peak][Gibraltar Rocks] 6A - 7B

[Dingdong]

Gibraltar Rocks, once dismissed on here as having 'nothing worthwhile' - yet upon closer inspection actually had some real quality stuff, I have just added a number of problems to the circuit. Before getting these done there were around 10 boulders all in the 4-5 grade range.

No Ear - 6A+
From a sitter on a small finger rail, work up to the ear hold and slap left to the sloper and top out.

Spread Eagle Cross the Block - 6C
Start under the roof on two sidepull crimps, head left via a pinchy crimp and do a hard move to match the lip, finish at the break or top out on easier moves for full experience.

Gunslinging - 7A+ https://imgur.com/a/Se7OOEo
The obvious leaning compression block. From a crouch, start left hand on a dinky sloper and right hand on a pinch sloper on the right arête. Do a series of moves falling upwards into pinches and trend up and left via the arête until you can mantel the left shelf to top out

Gunslinging Sit Start - 7B
Start sitting on the dinky sloper for the left and and a far away right crimp for the right, if you have small span this will be much harder problem, do a single hard slap to move into the stand of Gunslinging.

Land Tax - 7A+ https://imgur.com/nXUrqiW
To the right of Gunslinging is an overhanging bloc reminiscent of bad landing boulder, start right hand on a pinch under the block and left on a sloper, match the lip and traverse right using some sharp crimps until you can reach the arête and mantel

A couple more done today by my mate but he's yet to name/grade them but there's a nice little circuit there now. After the crag mod spoke to the owners they're ok with people going as long as ya keep low profile, no music, big groups, dogs, fires etc.

 

[RobinB]

Looks great - I've cycled past the crag lots of times and wondered if there would be anything worthwhile up there.

What's the best way to walk in? Assume you wouldn't want to get too close to the house near the road?

 

[Dingdong]

Looks great - I've cycled past the crag lots of times and wondered if there would be anything worthwhile up there.

What's the best way to walk in? Assume you wouldn't want to get too close to the house near the road?

Hey Robin, it’s a good little crag and there’s one really hard project there left probably in the realm of 7C+ or above to go at.

Easiest approach is park at the gate past the house, one car only at a time and walk up the path!

 

[Stabbsy]

I went and had a look on a damp day a couple of years ago, along with a few other spots in the area. Never made it back, mainly because I thought the owners weren’t friendly, but sounds like it’s worth another look. Nice one!

 

[Dingdong]

I went and had a look on a damp day a couple of years ago, along with a few other spots in the area. Never made it back, mainly because I thought the owners weren’t friendly, but sounds like it’s worth another look. Nice one!

I can see why on a damp dreary day it would seem totally uninspiring haha. Once I cleaned up some of the lines it quickly became obvious how quality the moves and how cool the boulders looked, definitely get up there for a sesh sometime, it’s nice and cool in the morning before the sun comes over the crag and there’s usually a bit of wind coming from over the top so it dries quick even after rain! When we got there yesterday it was soaked other than one slightly overhanging wall and after we finished cleaning that everything had dried out fully!

 

[Andy B]

Well done to the person that asked the land owner for access! I’d always assumed access here was going to be dodgy.
I was planning to visit today, but looking on street view, I can’t see how we’d park without blocking the gate?

 

[user 1679]

It looks like it would be possible to park in the layby on Blindside Lane and walk in past Tor Quarry if there was any issue with parking by the gate.

 

[Andy B]

Good idea. I’ve actually been that way before. Cheers Andy.

 

[Dingdong]

House owners said one car can park at the gate, there’s parking further down past the house and gate also

 

[Polnedrane]

Evening all. So I was the person who started asking around. Caught the farmer when he was working the field opposite and spoke to the house owner. Took my 3yrr old along who looked cute and said he wanted to climb. We owe him a debt.

The deal is there's loads of people go up there anyway to drink, party and have a fire or bbq but we all got caught up in the issues. The house owner is now an old climber who is ok with us being there I'll be honest the farmer was more noncommittal than anything. I did say I'd clean the crag up hence why as of tonight there's a pile of rubbish under the right end of the crag for me to pick up. A pile of glass collected together and there's the dump from a party over the top.

The general rules are. We don't cause an issue for the house, no big groups, no drinking, no music.

One car allowed in the gateway. Though I'd be removed to park elsewhere.

I plan to try and keep in touch with the two relevant owners.

 

[Polnedrane]

Re problems there. I have a guide sketched out. As I have for smallfield and brownlow. Its got the old stuff on, the stuff I did a few years ago and all the new stuff I know about. I will try and keep it up to date as stuff is done

 

[Dingdong]

Evening all. So I was the person who started asking around. Caught the farmer when he was working the field opposite and spoke to the house owner. Took my 3yrr old along who looked cute and said he wanted to climb. We owe him a debt.

The deal is there's loads of people go up there anyway to drink, party and have a fire or bbq but we all got caught up in the issues. The house owner is now an old climber who is ok with us being there I'll be honest the farmer was more noncommittal than anything. I did say I'd clean the crag up hence why as of tonight there's a pile of rubbish under the right end of the crag for me to pick up. A pile of glass collected together and there's the dump from a party over the top.

The general rules are. We don't cause an issue for the house, no big groups, no drinking, no music.

One car allowed in the gateway. Though I'd be removed to park elsewhere.

I plan to try and keep in touch with the two relevant owners.

Nice one Ryan, appreciate the work in speaking with the landowners and the cleanup, if you need a hand with a cleanup in future drop me a line as I’m close by in stannington!

 

[Polnedrane]

Tell you what you could do. Could you grade that nose I showed you?. Did it from the sit on the pommel but also the crimp sidepull in the roof and the right hand ede as a compression. Right at my limit so not comfortable grading

 

[Andy B]

We had a lovely session here this afternoon. Some good problems, in particular Sleeping Dog. Also did a direct on Land Tax, starting as for this but pulling up left to go up the centre of the face.
Great work on the access Ryan, and nice to meet you.
Bandy’s idea of parking at Blindside worked really well. It’s a pleasant 5-10 minute walk up, with potential for warm ups on the way, and will be much less likely to piss off the locals than parking on the narrow road under Gibraltar Rocks if the single space is full.

 

[Dingdong]

We had a lovely session here this afternoon. Some good problems, in particular Sleeping Dog. Also did a direct on Land Tax, starting as for this but pulling up left to go up the centre of the face.
Great work on the access Ryan, and nice to meet you.
Bandy’s idea of parking at Blindside worked really well. It’s a pleasant 5-10 minute walk up, with potential for warm ups on the way, and will be much less likely to piss off the locals than parking on the narrow road under Gibraltar Rocks if the single space is full.

Nice one Andy, did ya end up doing land tax or gunslinging? Any thoughts on grades? Always happy to get some feedback and adjust!

 

[Andy B]

We did Gunslinging, it’s sitter and land tax. We thought they were all good problems, but I have no hard opinions on the grades I’m afraid. Low 7s seems about right.

 

[Dingdong]

Nice one, glad you enjoyed them, will leave them as they are then!