Ondrawad

[Duncan Disorderly]

I though that too! I'm off there in May - will report back if it works for mere mortals :-\

 

[lukeyboy]

No 'news', but I saw a Gripped article earlier which included the stat that Ondra has now climbed 212 routes at 9a and above. It's just jaw-dropping, one of those things that really sets him apart from the rest of the field.

[quote author=Gripped] Narcissus was Ondra’s 212th route 5.14d (9a) and above. According to his 8a.nu page, he’s sent a mind-boggling 134 5.14d’s (with four onsights and two flashes), 50 5.15a’s (with one flash), 24 5.15b’s, four 5.15c’s, and one 5.15d. How’s that for a pyramid? [/quote]

 

[andy popp]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzgOb99i654

 

[Fiend]

That really is quite a sensible grade pyramid. I reckon he could do quite well with that steady approach.

 

[jwi]

That really is quite a sensible grade pyramid. I reckon he could do quite well with that steady approach.

Not so much a pyramid as a tectonic plate.

 

[andy popp]

Ondra climbs my central heating boiler:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ouzIfyVylo

 

[Fiend]

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10797.msg700846/topicseen.html#msg700846 :spank:

 

[jwi]

Ondra and Schubert trying DNA. Doesn't look particularly easy.

 

[Duncan campbell]

Oooh yes!! Finally… with the Olympics over Ondra can resume being a rock legend. Looking forward to watching this.

 

[Will Hunt]

Ondra and Schubert trying DNA. Doesn't look particularly easy.

Is it just me or does Ondra absolutely plaster the outside of the hold he glues with resin? Why?! (26:23)

 

[remus]

Is it just me or does Ondra absolutely plaster the outside of the hold he glues with resin? Why?! (26:23)

Looks like a pretty thin tufa so I guess he's just trying to give it a bit of extra strength so it lasts a bit longer next time. Not a pretty job though!

 

[Fiend]

It's Big Leviathan all over again! Good enough for an esoteric cave on Anglesey, good enough for the Ondra...

 

[Wellsy]

Ondra isn't here to make it look pretty he's here to fucking smash hard routes out, that's why I love him

 

[JamieG]

Not sure that’s all on Ondra. Looks like the hold was already plastered in glue before he stuck it back on. Probably from previous reinforcement attempts.

 

[jwi]

Dredging my memory for anecdotes overheard at the crag, but —iirc of course— there was a crucial hold that completely broke on DNA and was recreated with sika. Maybe that is what broke for Ondra?

 

[moose]

Dredging my memory for anecdotes overheard at the crag, but —iirc of course— there was a crucial hold that completely broke on DNA and was recreated with sika. Maybe that is what broke for Ondra?

When they're examining the detached hold, Schubert says, "at least now we can show how much sika there is". That suggests to me that it was a reinforced or reconstructed hold (and also that there had been an embargo / self-imposed restraint on admitting how manufactured the route was?!).

 

[MischaHY]

When they're examining the detached hold, Schubert says, "at least now we can show how much sika there is". That suggests to me that it was a reinforced or reconstructed hold (and also that there had been an embargo / self-imposed restraint on admitting how manufactured the route was?!).

I’m pretty sure he says ‘how much sika does’.

 

[remus]

(and also that there had been an embargo / self-imposed restraint on admitting how manufactured the route was?!)

Perhaps I was reading too much into it, but I took that as a general comment about the amount of sika on a lot of the hard limestone routes. There's some great rumour mill stuff about some of Sharma's routes.

 

[blaciqui]

 

[teestub]

I’m sure I read or saw Seb saying somewhere that he’d reinforced all the little tufa bits as he knew there was no way they’d last and he wanted the route to be in a similar state for would be repeaters.

I assume the amount of top end limestone routes without hold ‘reinforcement’ or straight up manufacturing is vanishingly small? What’s the deal with Flatanger, are they all natural there?