new hard line at millstone

a dense loner · Dec 20, 2010

on saturday the gangly snake hipped iain farrar completed his millstone project, nr twicker. he's given it a stupid name which i can't remember but the climbing looks superb. rocketman rob smith recorded the ascent on his phone. grade around the 8a+/8b mark. sorry i don't know more details but thats it

T_B · Dec 20, 2010

Is this the thing that looks like it has no footholds at the start, coming in from the right to reach a diagonal crimp-rail? Didn't realise it hadn't been done if it is that. Looks classic.

dave · Dec 20, 2010

Sounds good.

a dense loner said:
he's given it a stupid name

simon says get the fuck up?

a dense loner · Dec 20, 2010

tom that sounds right, but my knowledge of millstone like most things is less than nothing
looks like very big reach from appaling matched undercut, which is a big reach to get there. womans hips req

Bonjoy · Dec 20, 2010

It's called The Bed of Procrustes.
The line is directly below Twikker up a steep wall.
T_B - When I saw the line I also thought it would have to come in from the right at the start, the direct looked horendous. Effort to Iain he did it direct!

dave · Dec 20, 2010

Bonjoy said:
It's called The Bed of Procrustes.

catchy.

Fiend · Dec 20, 2010

Good stuff, I remember seeing this, get that footage up soon lol.

SA Chris · Dec 20, 2010

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Procrustes

Deep

Stubbs · Dec 20, 2010

Nice, I love that a grade has been offered, despite the name of the problem!

Bonjoy · Dec 20, 2010

I think the name has more to do with the shapes that the start moves force you into, but that’s just a guess.
Iain being a curmudgeonly (in a nice way) luddite he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb, in case it overpopularises/trashes the prob. I think he over estimates the number of boulderers in the market for 8a+/8b walls personally. I’ll try to bend his arm…

dave · Dec 20, 2010

Bonjoy said:
he doesnt want the vid posting on the interweb

hows about a courtroom style artists impression?

robertostallioni · Dec 20, 2010

or a Crimewatch style recreation of events?

Bonjoy · Dec 20, 2010

dave said:
Bonjoy said:

he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb

Click to expand...

hows about a courtroom style artists impression?

I'd ask him but I'm having trouble getting tension on my end of the yogurt pot talky string.

a dense loner · Dec 20, 2010

yes bonnous joyous is on the money with the shapes theory

Stubbs · Dec 20, 2010

a dense loner said:
yes bonnous joyous is on the money with the shapes theory

Shame, I hadn't read about Procrustes before and it struck me how much grading (especially of reach dependant problems) was a Procrustean solution.

Doylo · Dec 20, 2010

Nice! Seems slightly paranoid about reasons for not posting vid. i doubt any airlines will be chartering a jumbo jet to fly the worlds beasts to try it

jonjon · Dec 20, 2010

Christ all mighty, we need some sort of new guide to keep track of all this stuff.

dobbin · Dec 20, 2010

Dai has already booked his flight

Stubbs · Dec 20, 2010

Adam said Chris was on the way too ;D

lagerstarfish · Dec 20, 2010

Bonjoy said:
he doesn’t want the vid posting on the interweb, in case it overpopularises/trashes the prob. I think he over estimates the number of boulderers in the market for 8a+/8b walls personally.

One can never overestimate the number of idiots who will throw themselves at anything with a big number attached.

new hard line at millstone

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