New 9A on the blocs

[jwi]

https://www.grimper.com/news-charles-albert-libere-9a-bloc-saleve

Briefly, Charles Albert has done the FA of l’Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow) --- an old Elie Chevieux project in Salève, between Geneva and Annecy. Charles thinks it is by far the hardest thing he has done, but realise that is is probably quite a bit easier with kneepads and shoes admitting heel hooks. It is also a very long boulder, and might be better served with a route- or traverse-grade. Nevertheless, Charles gave it 9A as he would be surprised if anyone will find this to be 8C+ or easier.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Big grades for bad beta. aka - not wearing shoes

 

[Fultonius]

Right, let's crowdfund Barrows to go out all rubbered up and get it downgraded :lol: Seems prime for a Barrows Kneebarring extravaganza.

 

[jwi]

Albert thinks it is harder than 9a for himself, but maybe only 9a with shoes and pads. If I understand correctly.

I should probably have translated the name to The Wanderer and his Shadow as the name almost surely refers to Nietzsche's concept of Wandering vs Travelling. My bad.

 

[Fiend]

Another classic from Francharles Albertson :2thumbsup:

 

[JamieG]

Another classic from Francharles Albertson :2thumbsup:

That is a horrendous pun Fiend! ;D Good work!

 

[Bradders]

Vid of a long link on it here

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsWcuwBgFwg/?igshid=cTN1bmV5enZzMTdh

 

[SA Chris]

https://www.grimper.com/news-charles-albert-libere-9a-bloc-saleve

My French isn't that hot, is

Charles Albert à la conquête de l’absurde

a play on Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless?

 

[jwi]

https://www.grimper.com/news-charles-albert-libere-9a-bloc-saleve

My French isn't that hot, is

Charles Albert à la conquête de l’absurde

a play on Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless?

Almost surely. Il y a d'autres Annapurna dans la vie des hommes.

 

[Wellsy]

Vid of a long link on it here

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsWcuwBgFwg/?igshid=cTN1bmV5enZzMTdh

Are those toe-locks?

The problem does not look hugely inspiring but very impressive climbing nontheless

 

[jwi]

Looks great on Arthur's photos. Hopefully he filmed it as well.

 

[Bonjoy]

That looks pretty amazing to me. It's not a worldline but the movement and use of the human body to climb is exceptional and properly innovative. Proof that you can do weird and unique things in climbing that don't fit well in the standard boxes and also be genuinely interesting and boundary pushing.

 

[yetix]

Looks amazing to me, but I love 3d limestone roofs.

He's been trying another of his projects at isatis a little as well I believe (the one from his real rock where he does the first move (and the hardest move he's ever done) at the end of the film) so perhaps we will see more hard stuff from Charles soon.

https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/int-en/episodes/reel-rock-s8-e2 28m44s for the bloc I mean

Edit... Can't put the drinks company name but Google real rock Charles Albert and go to 28m44s

 

[Bradders]

That whole video is great. Fascinating portrait of him. And bloody hell those problems look hard! He makes Off the Wagon Low look piss.

 

[Andy F]

If he's not done it clipping a hanging knotted rope does it count as an ascent?

 

[JackMcKechnie]

Probably the only time I'll ever add a 9A boulder to a crag I moderate on UKC.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/le_saleve-8647/lombre_du_voyageur-710908

 

[Duma]

Thanks yetix, had forgotten how good that vid is

 

[SA Chris]

Probably the only time I'll ever add a 9A boulder to a crag I moderate on UKC.

Embarrassingly, in spite of driving past dozens of times on the way to and from the airport, I've never stopped, usually because I'm with non-climbers more psyched on snow. Looks really good.

 

[JackMcKechnie]

Probably the only time I'll ever add a 9A boulder to a crag I moderate on UKC.

Embarrassingly, in spite of driving past dozens of times on the way to and from the airport, I've never stopped, usually because I'm with non-climbers more psyched on snow. Looks really good.

It's a great crag. Easy access from Geneva by public transport and loads of areas to go at.

 

[duncan]

That whole video is great. Fascinating portrait of him. And bloody hell those problems look hard! He makes Off the Wagon Low look piss.

His movement style is fascinating and there is a lot to learn from it. I need to work on my flexibility! It's interesting to think how rock climbing could look if it developed from shoeless playing on boulders instead of hearty Victorians stomping up hills in big boots. I hope his beta for L’Ombre du Voyageur isn't too broken by rubber wearers.

The hyper-romanticism of the portrayal of cave living, so typical of Reel Rock, made me want to vomit. Maintaining your shampoo-advert hair whilst living in a smokey cave?! The whole notion of off-grid living in a developed 21st century country is such bollocks: try doing the same in a country without functioning police and health services and let's see how long you last. It's good a society can accommodate the Charles Alberts but this dishonesty just encourages small state fantasists.

(and whilst I'm having a go at RR, have you seen Flex? Impressive ascents blah blah blah, but if you're struggling with insomnia just give it a watch.)