New 9A on the block?

[remus]

Sam Prior and Aidan Roberts have started a podcast and towards the end of episode 1 there's a tantalising mention of a new problem Shawn Raboutou has put up and is likely to give 9A which would make it the third in the world after Nalle's Burden of Dreams and DWood's Return of the Sleepwalker.

Sounds like Aidan put a few weeks in to it too so imagine it's not piss.

 

[CapitalistPunter]

Sam Prior and Aidan Roberts have started a podcast and towards the end of episode 1 there's a tantalising mention of a new problem Shawn Raboutou has put up and is likely to give 9A which would make it the third in the world after Nalle's Burden of Dreams and DWood's Return of the Sleepwalker.

Sounds like Aidan put a few weeks in to it too so imagine it's not piss.

Christ! Good we have Aiden to show it's not another No Kpote

 

[Liamhutch89]

Didn't the big island sit also get 9A?

 

[Fiend]

New 9A on the bloc, surely...

 

[remus]

Didn't the big island sit also get 9A?

Doh, yeah that also gets 9A (going on the majority vote), so Shawn's thing would be the fourth.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/849/soudain-seul

 

[Duma]

Seems a bit odd they talked about this given that Shawn (ugh that spelling really triggers me for some reason) obviously hasn't, presumably for a reason. I guess it was a well known project but still.

 

[abarro81]

Without having listened to the podcast, that doesn't sound too odd to me - you can't (and shouldn't be able to) embargo people talking about what you've done, especially if it's something they've then (or already) tried! Why does it strike you as odd?

 

[Bradders]

Agree with Alex, it's not Sam or Aidan's fault that Shawn seems remarkably relaxed about reporting the new things he's done recently (to the general public, as opposed to the in crowd of elite level boulderers).

 

[Duma]

Of course, I just assumed that there was a reason this hasn't been reported, other than just Shawn not being arsed. Guess it's more odd that if there's a new 9A, this is how the climbing public find out.

 

[remus]

Agree with Barrows and Badders. It'd be a shame if we end up in a situation where people don't feel like they can talk about what happened at the crag because there's some weird omerta thing going on.

Maybe there is a good reason why Shawn has tried to keep it on the down low, but it's hard to imagine what it could be.

 

[IanP]

A quick google finds below, though doesn't add much than 'we know what he's done but aren't going to tell you':

https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/first-ascent-of-fuck-the-system-8c-shawn-raboutou-silently-boulders-old-dave-graham-line/

More arrows in the quiver: When will Shawn communicate his 9a boulder?

Shawn Raboutou spent a large part of his winter season in Switzerland. And it's no secret that the American is in the form of his life right now, climbing a string of difficult boulders.

From conversations with numerous acquaintances of Raboutous, our magazine knows that the American climbed a 9a boulder (!) in Val Bavona for the first time, among other things. We know the details of the inspection, but we leave the communication primeur to Raboutou. When will he let the cat out of the bag?

 

[Orrincoley]

Random observation based on not a lot, but I get the impression Shawn just doesn't care much for publicity on social media? In regards to this 9A, he did it months ago now. Plenty of people have known about it, I guess just the loudest voices this time didn't.

And in regards to Sam and Aidan mentioning it publicly first, there's a lot of irony complaining about that on this site when the Significant Repeats thread often has the news before any instablam post or 8a.spew report because someone heard from a mate and wanted to share...

 

[teestub]

From conversations with numerous acquaintances of Raboutous, our magazine knows that the American climbed a 9a boulder (!) in Val Bavona for the first time, among other things. We know the details of the inspection, but we leave the communication primeur to Raboutou. When will he let the cat out of the bag?

Wasn’t the podcast talking about one next to Alphane Moon in Chironico, so is there two?!

 

[jwi]

It just goes to show how very little money there is to be made from climbing hard. If you cannot monetise it easily why would you tell the world, unless writing or videomaking is a hobby you like? Sounds like working for nothing.

 

[Doylo]

It’s all on his Flickr. You guys are useless .

 

[Duma]

Just to be clear, I have absolutely no objection, to it getting mentioned, and don't think anyone should have to avoid talking about it! But doesn't anyone else think it's odd that a new 9A gets done and no one knows for months, it's not like Shawn and the rest of that group aren't active on social media, so I assumed there was some reason.

 

[CrimpyMcCrimpface]

Maybe this is the new climbing marketing hype, allow the rumour mills of the internet to buckle under the anticipation..

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdtbtv0Jhtf/

From the instagram..

shawnraboutou
Last summer I climbed an old @dave_graham_ project in Fionnay, Switzerland. This dude climbs like he’s from 2030 .. ahead of his time. Thanks DG for always inspiring!

Fuck the System (V16/8C+)

@clem_lechap

felipe.camargo
Verified
Dude you should've posted this months ago...theres two more that u need to post...hurry up!

brookeclimbs
Verified
If only they knew

 

[Doylo]

It just goes to show how very little money there is to be made from climbing hard. If you cannot monetise it easily why would you tell the world, unless writing or videomaking is a hobby you like? Sounds like working for nothing.

Most do it for GLORY but the only men with glory are dead men.

Exhibit A posted above illustrates he’s not above posting his ascents on Evilgram.
Which rules out any authentic attempt of positioning himself as a DarkHorse and gaining some inner smugness or perhaps even enlightenment.
The fact it’s months down the line pretty much rules out the ‘wanting to enjoy it for myself for a while before posting ‘ angle. People only keep that shit up for a week max.
So something else is going on. I know not what that is but it’s certainly a stark contrast from people posting their 7Bs before they’ve got back to the car.

 

[Bradders]

Just to be clear, I have absolutely no objection, to it getting mentioned, and don't think anyone should have to avoid talking about it! But doesn't anyone else think it's odd that a new 9A gets done and no one knows for months, it's not like Shawn and the rest of that group aren't active on social media, so I assumed there was some reason.

Yes, it is odd in the context of everything else on social media. Maybe that's a good thing though? Avoiding the immediacy of social media's tendency to devour whatever the latest thing is and then move on in 10 seconds flat?

 

[Wellsy]

I kind of like the word of mouth stuff. Makes it feel a bit more mysterious, underground, whatever you want to call.

I'd rather he do it and not bother mentioning it other than to his mates than I would him do it with a can of Tenzing or whatever at the bottom of the camera picture for the gram, you know? Like I'm not blaming people for that, people are offered sponsorship, fame, social media income etc they take it, but I prefer this more chilled, reserved way myself