Ned Feehally interview now live

[rginns]

Really enjoyed that Shark, thanks for going to the trouble.
What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

 

[Bradders]

What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

There's a thread here discussing the merits of different methods of adding weight on a board:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30436.0.html

 

[tomtom]

Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option

 

[teestub]

In my experience tiny footholds become more shoe dependent than anything else and you just end up trashing a small area of your shoe. Think Ned’s board already has pretty terrible slopey feet!

 

[Doylo]

Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option

They’re not mutually exclusive. Good to do a bit of everything.

 

[Doylo]

Wooden domes with ankle weights would be extremely hard. Don’t think I could on mine.

 

[tomtom]

Wooden domes with ankle weights would be extremely hard. Don’t think I could on mine.

#NextLevel

 

[Bradders]

Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option

I've found ankle weights make most difference when moving your feet between footholds and when cutting, so kind of irrelevant how big the feet are. Although imagine on slopey feet it'd be a different story!

 

[rginns]

What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

There's a thread here discussing the merits of different methods of adding weight on a board:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30436.0.html

Nice one Bradders, thanks.

Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option

I would have thought using smaller crapper footholds wouldn't engage the core as much as pure weight on the ankles. A combination of shit footholds plus ankle weights though... :-\ :strongbench:

 

[spidermonkey09]

Watching this now, great job Simon.

As an aside, I think a big reason that Smiling Buttress continues to go under the radar a bit is that the video seems to have gone missing; anyone able to find it?

 

[Jonathan Platt]

Ye really enjoyed that thanks to those involved.

I also couldn`t find smiling buttress video - link to BMC site doesn't seem to work anymore.

As a side note here is a link to a recent (year ago) Tyler Landman interview that is a good listen:

https://intheflownutrition.com/blog/2019/6/19/ep-7-tyler-landman

 

[tomtom]

@rginns smaller feet certainly work my core to a greater extent - you have to fight so much more to keep the feet on before, during and after making a move.

 

[teestub]

I think Pritch filmed that amazing Ty footage, although not 100%

 

[JackPal]

Great job Simon. Varian next.

I took all of that with a great fistful of salt, when he’s talking about having weak fingers that’s compared to Megos, Aidan and Varian. Although I’m sure 12 weeks in a Lattice plan would have him up to Font 9A+

Yeah me too, and I bet his fingers are damn good all round, different grip types, fingers spit up etc. Another pinch for the questioning why people aren't trying Smiling buttress. If it's proving hard for him that kinda answers his own question.

 

[Simon Lee]

Great job Simon.

Phew - are we off the hook now?

 

[fiveknuckle21]

Thanks for that Shark. Top notch.

 

[petejh]

Just watched it, nice one Simon really good. Comes across as a sound guy.

 

[Sasquatch]

I think it's interesting that as someone who's similar sized to Ned, my fingers are relatively weak in terms of % body weight to all the guys i climb with, but in terms of absolute strength they're really not too bad. I'd guess he's kind of in the same boat. If i can stand or use my feet, then I can climb multiple grades harder than if I have to jump or cut feet.

 

[Doylo]

He’s done crimpy 8bs in a few goes so can probably put the violin away for now . :lol: :boohoo:

 

[Pantontino]

Nice one Shark, loved that.

Interesting to note that the same hand-me-down project scenes occur in the Peak as they do in my neck of the woods.