Megoswad

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I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.

Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.
 
As Barrows said on the other thread, without knowing the crag and where exactly the holds on each route are it's hard to judge whether the new line is squeezed in or not. It doesn't appear that bad on the topo.

Regardless of who is right and who is wrong in this instance I think it's great that they have this sort of conversation over there. It's so easy to ruin good quality lines by forcing new routes in just to the side. If only people were more discerning in the UK - especially when it comes to squeezing in more 6s at existing crags.
 
gme said:
9a flash today. Not 100% up to speed on these things but don’t think that many have done this. Him and Ondra?

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/?igshid=158jy8aprduj2

Missed this at the time, good effort. I loved the old video of Tomas Mrazek on it, rocking some serious white trous.
 
Stu Littlefair said:
I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.

Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.

Since no-one appears to be Franken-literate enough to get my joke, I should point out that Corona, 9a+ which starts up Burn For You and is as close to it throughout it's length as Megos' new line is.... a Markus Bock route. #needsacarrotuphisasshole
 
Stu Littlefair said:
Stu Littlefair said:
I think Bock has a point here. Look at that topo. Some asshole has even done a route that starts up the classic Burn for you.

Out of order. He should flex those bolts for sure.

Since no-one appears to be Franken-literate enough to get my joke, I should point out that Corona, 9a+ which starts up Burn For You and is as close to it throughout it's length as Megos' new line is.... a Markus Bock route. #needsacarrotuphisasshole

Haha. I did wonder after.. One rule for the old and one for the youths.
 
Judging by his insta stories it looks like Alex may be trying something at the La Capella sector in Siurana, I wonder whether he's putting some time into the hard stuff Bosi did over winter?
 
Thought I’d share this YouTube of Megos doing King Capella.

https://youtu.be/5CUvvxcr1EU
 
That looked insanely hard. I knew well had done a few FAs last year, but pretty cool to see them getting the attention of the likes of Megos :punk:
 
Long interview with Alex Megos on Actiontalk TV. Skip to the second part where they talk about downgrading of Bibliography, Will Bosi's routes in Siurana, the future of human performance on rock and the situation in Ukraine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBjtBF8FbWo

English subs available, among many languages.
 

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