Fiend
Whut
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2004
- Messages
- 13,893
Even by the usual bewildering anomalousness of bouldering morphology and grading, these are exceptionally anomalous (worse than Moonboard """benchmarks"""??) and I'm wondering if there is any way to get one's head around them.
From what I can judge, on slabs, say, up to 80 degrees, gratton problems are merely a couple of grades sandbagged. Then for, say, every 5 degrees steeper, the given Font grade increases a grade, but the sandbagging increases 2 grades. Get to vertical and you've got something given 2 grades harder than a slab but is actually 6 grades harder compare to anything else anywhere else.
Obviously this is due to a very specific style which seems to require very specific traits:
But I'm still curious if there is The One INSANE Gratton Trick Bleausards Don't Want You To Know....



From what I can judge, on slabs, say, up to 80 degrees, gratton problems are merely a couple of grades sandbagged. Then for, say, every 5 degrees steeper, the given Font grade increases a grade, but the sandbagging increases 2 grades. Get to vertical and you've got something given 2 grades harder than a slab but is actually 6 grades harder compare to anything else anywhere else.
Obviously this is due to a very specific style which seems to require very specific traits:
- Leather hard, bone dry skin, but not too thick so it wrinkles nor peels.
- Bullet hard finger pulp / soft tissue, preferably with no functioning nerve endings left.
- Perfectly broken in edging boots, specifically cut and sanded down to fit the footholds.
- Extreme flexibility esp in hips. Full balls/minge-to-the-floor frog pose essential rather than merely useful.
- Be 60kg or less. For every 5kg over that, also add a grade.
- Ideally have climbed Font gratton problems regularly for decades rather than years.
But I'm still curious if there is The One INSANE Gratton Trick Bleausards Don't Want You To Know....


