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edshakey said:
I'm not on Instagram, but I believe that's the one.

Yeah I think it must be sarcasm - only way it would make sense?

If he's a coach, then maybe we can expect more from the French team on the matter.

The reference is to the IFSC press release saying this was going to be great for athletes in terms of commercial revenue.
 
Duma said:
OTOH, Stasa Gejo, probably one of the most active on social media, has just posted that she doesn't see what the fuss is about, which seems pretty short sighted.

It is rather short sighted but Stasa is very cool so I don't really mind. I think also she does have a point; it is cheap and usually to watch sports you do have to pay something
 
I guess how it works out will depend on whether it turns out that most comp watchers are
A. Fans who will pay
Or
B. People like me who like having the comp on while they stretch, cook dinner or do an ARC session on their fingerboard... who won't pay and will just watch Netflix or listen to a podcast instead and maybe watch the replay later if it was supposed to be a good comp
 
I get Eurosport with my cable package (I'm an inveterate football and NFL fan so pay silly money for sports channels). I was heartened to see that the women's finals were broadcast live on the main Eurosport 1 channel but the men's finals are being shown on a 5 hour delay at 10pm, as a second-rate darts tournament and a Turkish cycling race are on while they are live. Admittedly the Amstel Gold Race partly overlaps but climbing really does look like a filler / "small fish in big pond" in its new context.
 
So men's final not shown live? That is an absolute piss take, and has certainly swung me to the VPN route if I decide to bother at all.
 
Yep, bullshit. Why on earth would anyone pay for a live stream when a) it's not live, b) it's being shown late at night, and c) it'll be available for free shortly thereafter?!
 
Text from IG post by Manu:

manu_cornu

A few days before Meiringen, just like 5 years ago, streaming rights for the competition were sold. Back in 2017 we had all protested with a red card and by boycotting the competition at the start of the semi-final.
We are the actors of the show offered with each competition and I strive to keep our sport accessible to all.
Competition fans behind their screens are not the only ones affected by this change. Event organizers who are looking for partners to offer free streaming for these competitions in order to reach a larger audience are also on the front line.
We, the athletes, need visibility, most of us have image contracts, and this change will inevitably. bring changes to these contracts because of this loss of visibility. This entails potentially losing contracts and impacts our ability to build our careers as athletes.
Athletes, teams, and organizers live and accomplish their goals in large part thanks to the worldwide visibility offered by the live streams.
We are not a sufficiently developed sport today to be able to generate revenues significant enough to subsidize the athletes.
A first step would be for the federation to share parts of its revenues with the athletes.
Today, nothing has been agreed upon, neither with the athletes nor with the federations, but even if it had the scales would be too low.
I do not understand and do not support the decision of our international federation. We need to be united among climbers to respond to this development that simply does not work.
And the federation needs to place its athletes at the heart of its projects.
If there are no climbers, there is nothing to negotiate.

Integrating ads in free streaming would be a more constructive idea...

Things must change, let's unite!
 
I have eurosport on tv as part of the bundle I have and even with that it is super annoying. The non live coverge of the mens was delayed due to the darts, fucking darts, overunning and they have edited it so you don't see everybody climb everythign and the commentator as disscussed is totally excrable. I'm sure he is a very nice man but skilled climbing commentator he is not. In the intro behind his rhetorical bellowing you could hear Matt Groom and another bloke having an interesting conversation about the problems, just to rub it in.
 
Same as you, Eurosport already on my TV.

Pretty terrible coverage considering people pay for that. Hours later than live, and not the full comp - people getting zones that determine placing and we don't see the entire round! Ogata got a zone which helped him get a podium place, and we just completely missed it. And then Fujii had the chance to come out and top the final boulder and win, and they didn't show that either, which is normally one of the best moments. Commentator was also poor - do Americans love him or something? Cos I can't imagine he got favourable reviews after the Olympics, not from what I heard anyway, albeit that was almost exclusively Brits.

You know it's bad when people with free access to Eurosport are considering the VPN + YouTube option :furious:
 
erm said:
the commentator as disscussed is totally excrable. I'm sure he is a very nice man but skilled climbing commentator he is not. In the intro behind his rhetorical bellowing you could hear Matt Groom and another bloke having an interesting conversation about the problems, just to rub it in.

I never thought I would be yearning for Matt bloody Groom to come back, but here we are!

I get the impression that he's employed as a general commentator by Eurosport, I.e. he ends up commentating on a variety of different sports and therefore knows very little about the actual sport in question. It genuinely sounds like he's never climbed in his life, and is basically reading from an information sheet which states:

a) the name of the athlete
b) their age
c) whether they've won anything before
d) their nationality and place of birth; and,
e) what the routesetters had in mind for the problem

Repeat ad infinitum. No insight, no analysis, nothing. I don't think he even knows the rules. When Duffy had to re-do problem 3 he said something like "the judges must have spotted something", clearly with no clue what it was that they'd seen.

If I have to listen to him say something along the lines of "great start for the xx year old from xxxxxxx" again I could scream.

edshakey said:
Same as you, Eurosport already on my TV.

Pretty terrible coverage considering people pay for that. Hours later than live, and not the full comp - people getting zones that determine placing and we don't see the entire round! Ogata got a zone on M4, which secured him a podium place, and we just completely missed it. And then Fujii had the chance to come out and top the final boulder and win, and they didn't show that either, which is normally one of the best moments.

Not sure about this; the version I watched on Prime / Eurosport was the full thing, unedited. There are two versions on there for some reason, highlights and full replay.
 
I recorded the program through Sky Q when it was broadcast, and then watched it later. So I got to see the end of the darts, ad breaks, etc. Which makes me think I got to see it exactly how it was broadcast.

They then maybe uploaded the unedited version to the online streams for people to watch later?
 
I have the Eurosport Iplayer for the cycling. On various cycling forums there is a lot of angst about certain commentators Carlton Kirby and Rob Hatch both don’t have cycling background. Yet they are usually paired with an ex professional rider for major races.
This issue has been running for several years so don’t expect any changes soon.
Also races often don’t appear when they are scheduled or are missing commentary. Plus they also disappear from the on demand list.
So it’s not perfect but I feel it worth it for the cycling but there no way I’d pay just for the climbing comps.
 
Seems really odd that they don't use Groom given he's still doing it for the youtube stream.

So the ONLY way to watch the men's finals live was via VPN, and the broadcast version was edited such as to remove crucial action? IE if you live in Europe and give any sort of fuck about the WCs the ONLY option is now via VPN? The IFSC need to bin this pronto, and if they don't I'd say the competitors should be protesting similar tor 2017
 
Bradders said:
erm said:
the commentator as disscussed is totally excrable. I'm sure he is a very nice man but skilled climbing commentator he is not. In the intro behind his rhetorical bellowing you could hear Matt Groom and another bloke having an interesting conversation about the problems, just to rub it in.

I never thought I would be yearning for Matt bloody Groom to come back, but here we are!

I get the impression that he's employed as a general commentator by Eurosport, I.e. he ends up commentating on a variety of different sports and therefore knows very little about the actual sport in question. It genuinely sounds like he's never climbed in his life, and is basically reading from an information sheet which states:

a) the name of the athlete
b) their age
c) whether they've won anything before
d) their nationality and place of birth; and,
e) what the routesetters had in mind for the problem

Repeat ad infinitum. No insight, no analysis, nothing. I don't think he even knows the rules. When Duffy had to re-do problem 3 he said something like "the judges must have spotted something", clearly with no clue what it was that they'd seen.

If I have to listen to him say something along the lines of "great start for the xx year old from xxxxxxx" again I could scream.

edshakey said:
Same as you, Eurosport already on my TV.

Pretty terrible coverage considering people pay for that. Hours later than live, and not the full comp - people getting zones that determine placing and we don't see the entire round! Ogata got a zone on M4, which secured him a podium place, and we just completely missed it. And then Fujii had the chance to come out and top the final boulder and win, and they didn't show that either, which is normally one of the best moments.

Not sure about this; the version I watched on Prime / Eurosport was the full thing, unedited. There are two versions on there for some reason, highlights and full replay.

The best bit was when he relayed the route setters beta to finish Female final problem 1 (I think it was) as to "drop to the knees"....
 
Duma said:
So the ONLY way to watch the men's finals live was via VPN, and the broadcast version was edited such as to remove crucial action? IE if you live in Europe and give any sort of fuck about the WCs the ONLY option is now via VPN? The IFSC need to bin this pronto, and if they don't I'd say the competitors should be protesting similar tor 2017

Seems that way - which is absolutely ridiculous. Seems pretty indefensible really, to suggest that people should start paying as well as losing the ability to watch live. Curious if the IFSC will attempt to respond to any criticism - not got huge expectations, although if more athletes keep speaking up, it maybe happen.
 
Wonder if Eurosport actually monitor the number of people watching the streams? Maybe if they find it's below a certain number they might be able to pull out of the deal?
 
It has been more than 24 hours since the comp, and still no replay on youtube as far as I can tell? The only bit of footage I have found is on Beta Routesetting's channel.

I guess I will not view any comps this year.
 

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