Rocksteady
Hotter than the sun!
This is supposed to be 6c. I've climbed 7b at the Cuttings this year, and have been working on several of the harder climbs (and have climbed nearly all the easier ones at the crag), but on this climb there was a move I couldn't do.
Obvious crux section moving off the ledge. Right hand crack where you can get half a pad in on three or four fingers. Left hand - where? We found an extremely thin crimp for the left hand that would have made the climb possible - but seemed a seriously hard move, more akin to the crux on a 7b+ or 7c? And a bit of broken rock next to it. If that broken rock had been a left hand hold I could imagine a bridging sequence to get the flat dusty jugs just above. As it was both me and my climbing partner (who's pretty close to doing Fighting Torque at 8a just along the crag) were stumped and fell. Then we spent ages trying to work out what to do - and simply couldn't work it out.
Has a hold come off? Or was the 'extremely technical' crux move just that, and we were being muppets and just couldn't see the move?
Any beta appreciated, just found this route a bit frustrating!
Obvious crux section moving off the ledge. Right hand crack where you can get half a pad in on three or four fingers. Left hand - where? We found an extremely thin crimp for the left hand that would have made the climb possible - but seemed a seriously hard move, more akin to the crux on a 7b+ or 7c? And a bit of broken rock next to it. If that broken rock had been a left hand hold I could imagine a bridging sequence to get the flat dusty jugs just above. As it was both me and my climbing partner (who's pretty close to doing Fighting Torque at 8a just along the crag) were stumped and fell. Then we spent ages trying to work out what to do - and simply couldn't work it out.
Has a hold come off? Or was the 'extremely technical' crux move just that, and we were being muppets and just couldn't see the move?
Any beta appreciated, just found this route a bit frustrating!
