Lancs LGPs.

[Fiend]

Stronstrey Bank:

E8/9 Death Project

Choose a non-seepy period, cruise up the lower wall to a good flake hold and decent resting foothold at half-height, then somehow gain very distant crimps above, trying not to think about the terrible, stepped, unpatioable landing.

Highball Wall Project

Most logically done as a slight eliminate, jumping enthusiastically off a mono-sidepull in a crack just right of the easy corner. Possible micro cam there or just the good landing.


Deeply Vale:

Ha'Penny Wall Project

Mosey up the the thin break, good cams left and right (and good landing with a spotter), then contort up inverted gastons to get stood up and reach a thinner break above and finish.


Pinfold:

Suicide Simulator 2 Project:

Trot up the slab to good footholds, palm across the roof to gain nice non-existent pinches on the lip, and fall backwards and upwards, hopefully latching the chipped jug pocket in the process. High and no gear but good landing with a carpet of pads.

^^^ I've inspected / cleaned all of this lot although SS2 needs some flakey stuff under the roof scrubbing off.



Wilton 1:

Chocolate Giant
There are some holds and features up the blunt arete linking Chocolate Girl into Gigantic, whether they work is another matter. Could be amazing if they do.

Barbara Buttress Bonanza
R-man mentioned this one but pretty sure it deserves a route grade too!

 

[Probes]

The 'death project' I am under the impression has been done. I have topied it and believe I tried to solo it, as it is basically a v highball solo, but believe I backed off. All a lot of very purple hazy memories from 20+ yrs back. I thought possibly E4/5 ish. I remember hearing/reading someone (maybe Dave M) had done an E4 on that wall, so assumed it would be this.
That highball project, yep that was how I was trying it, I'm sure its a lot steeper and bigger than it looks in the photo . It looks very clean though?!

CG Gigantic link up, again I have heard this was done, I truly believe it has, others may not. Mentioned in an interview.

Ha penny wall project looks mint!!

Ill just add to the CG Gigantic link up.. you can move right along the good edge, the edge you slap to on the crux of CG, and rock over and gain the crack of gigantic some where near the bottom of it. This I have done on a shunt. But its bollocks really. Like you say the line has to be direct up the blunt rib, which would basically be using the small foothold on gigantics crux and probably not a lot else.

 

[Fiend]

The 'death project' I am under the impression has been done. I have topied it and believe I tried to solo it, as it is basically a v highball solo, but believe I backed off. All a lot of very purple hazy memories from 20+ yrs back. I thought possibly E4/5 ish. I remember hearing/reading someone (maybe Dave M) had done an E4 on that wall, so assumed it would be this.

Any names / grades / details?? I will eat my (very tattered and heavily annotated) copy of the 2016 guide if this is anywhere near E5 (for an o/s w/o pads). It's a long way to the upper edges and I doubt many people would walk away from a fall.

That highball project, yep that was how I was trying it, I'm sure its a lot steeper and bigger than it looks in the photo . It looks very clean though?!

The photo is straight after I scrubbed it. But I can cut back the top ledge a bit more if you or anyone fancies a rematch?

CG Gigantic link up, again I have heard this was done, I truly believe it has, others may not. Mentioned in an interview.

Again, any names / grades / details?? If someone is linking a powerful E7 direct into a very physical E8 up the most spectacular bit of rock in Lancashire then I'd be astonished if it's gone under the radar or only has a small number attached to it...

Agreed about the alternate cop out version traversing right into CG lower down, I did spot that but it's not the line.

Ha penny wall project looks mint!!

Again I scrubbed it in 2023 so it should only need a light brush to go now.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Again, any names / grades / details?? If someone is linking a powerful E7 direct into a very physical E8 up the most spectacular bit of rock in Lancashire then I'd be astonished if it's gone under the radar or only has a small number attached to it...

Don't want to speak for Probes but I think he's saying Gaskins said he did it. I am....less convinced.

Quote from Nez on the best of 2023 thread:

On the same day I held Lincoln's ropes on the possible FA of the direct finish - Phil Kelly got in touch with Adam and apparently Gaskin's claimed this and the other LGP of linking Chocolate Girl into Ginormous.

 

[Fiend]

Hopeless. Does anyone actually find these 3rd hand rumours of a possible ascent with no details whatsoever to be remotely useful??

Either record and describe the damn thing (n.b. damn thing could be nationally significant in this case??) like every other fucking climb, or don't, and let someone else do it.

 

[jakaitch]

How high is the deathy thing? Hard tot tell from the picture, but looks amazing!

 

[spidermonkey09]

Indeed. In the absence of any evidence (what a surprise) it should be treated as still up for grabs.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Indeed. In the absence of any evidence (what a surprise) it should be treated as still up for grabs.

Does that mean i can still have the fa of Ginormous?

 

[Probes]

Any names / grades / details?? I will eat my (very tattered and heavily annotated) copy of the 2016 guide if this is anywhere near E5 (for an o/s w/o pads). It's a long way to the upper edges and I doubt many people would walk away from a fall.

If I can find my old lancs brick, which got buried when I moved house, there'll be some details in there. Ill try and drag it out.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Indeed. In the absence of any evidence (what a surprise) it should be treated as still up for grabs.

Does that mean i can still have the fa of Ginormous?

According to UKC you're still claiming it! :lol:

 

[Fiend]

How high is the deathy thing? Hard tot tell from the picture, but looks amazing!

About 9m but the landing involves a 1m step and boulders that I couldn't see a way to make sensible.

If I can find my old lancs brick, which got buried when I moved house, there'll be some details in there. Ill try and drag it out.

Fingers crossed, an old Brick shouldn't be too hard to find!

 

[Hoseyb]

The Gleaming the cube patio is 1.5m high x 2m wide, 3m long...

Where there's a Will there's a way

 

[GCW]

If I can find my old lancs brick, which got buried when I moved house, there'll be some details in there. Ill try and drag it out.

What do you need from the Brick?

 

[rginns]

If I can find my old lancs brick, which got buried when I moved house, there'll be some details in there. Ill try and drag it out.

What do you need from the Brick?

I thought Probes might be referring to notes he has made?

 

[rginns]

The Gleaming the cube patio is 1.5m high x 2m wide, 3m long...

Where there's a Will there's a way

We'll need a JCB for that ! :dance1:

 

[Dac]

I too have a copy of the 1999 Lancashire Rock guide.

If between all of UKB we can rustle up another couple of copies we should have enough to patio any landing you choose.

 

[Fiend]

Any progress on details of some of these LGPs being done, Probes??