K5 - Chee Dale

[deeba]

Dogged up this at the weekend. Looking for some beta for the section around Devonshire arms. the ukc route description mentions avoiding the hard moves on devonshire and talks about using a heel toe and a pinch. Hayden’s video (linked on ukc) uses a heel toe and pinch but as far as i can tell this is exactly the devonshire crux. I tried using Haydn’s beta but couldn’t get the heel to stick (maybe wasn’t putting it in the right place - bit unclear from the video). I could only do the move with feet on some small footholds…and it felt very hard. Any suggestions?

 

[haydn jones]

That's definitely not the Devonshire crux. The Devonshire crux goes straight up not sideways

 

[haydn jones]

Look at the photo on ukc of Bob doing k4.5 he's on the Devonshire crux

 

[deeba]

but aren’t you using the same holds? what Bob had in his right hand is the pinch which you roll over to with a heel in? and the sidepull above the undercut bob has with his left hand is the one you take a cut on?

 

[haydn jones]

Nope I'm about 2 meters lower

 

[deeba]

oops yeah rewatched and realised you’re indeed on the shelf below. My mistake. Thanks Haydn!