IFSC 2019
- Thread starter Duma
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For those who watch a lot/follow the comps, is it common for those who qualify near the top often fail to get through the semis?
Coming out in the last 5 of 20 on the semis problems could be a disadvantage as the holds will be slightly chalkier/greasy but I've no idea if this is actually the case? Is it all so close in the qualifying that the difference in positions is actually a very fine margin?
Coming out in the last 5 of 20 on the semis problems could be a disadvantage as the holds will be slightly chalkier/greasy but I've no idea if this is actually the case? Is it all so close in the qualifying that the difference in positions is actually a very fine margin?
sxrxg
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bigironhorse said:
This 100%.
I used to watch quite a few of the finals however don't bother now with the split format. In fact i usually start watching and then get bored after half an hour or so as there is more standing about with inane commentary as the presenters try and do their best to fill the resting time than actual climbing. It was so much better when the men and women climbed at the same time as there was usually something going on to watch, granted occasionally an important moment would get missed however i am sure this would improve as the broadcasting gets more professional (possibly using a split screen format or replays to ensure that none of the important action is missed).
Further to the above 4 hours is just too long for me to commit to watching a sporting event. Surely they need to look at other mass market sports and the duration of the events, football 90min (+15 min half time), F1 2 hour max race limit, T20 cricket (approx 3 hours maximum), basketball 48min (plus time outs and breaks approx 2 hours). As we can see all these popular sports seem to be aiming for around the 2 hour mark as the sweet spot which would be approximately the length of the finals if they revert to running the male and female finals concurrently.
I understand that it could be argued that 2 hours is already the length of time of each individual final however I think one of comp climbing's biggest strengths is having both male and female athletes gaining near equal levels of exposure during the coverage, I can't think of any other mainstream sports where this is the case (tennis is possibly the closest however they still seem to place more emphasis on the men's game).
jwi said:
I would be inclined to disagree - taking a quick look through the results for the men from the 2018 boulder competitions it seems like about 50% of the time the climber wins their qualification group they fail to make the final.
Random aside: no male climber won all three rounds of a single competition in 2018, and the only climber to win both semis and finals in the same comp was Gabriele Moroni in Hachioji.
hobblingfool
Well-Known Member
Completely agree. Thought the problems were great but when the men's finished it seemed like an anticlimax to start all over again. The crowd in the arena create more energy when both are going at the same time.
sxrxg said:
Agree with both of these points.
Other live events: big name gigs, musicals, and most popular operas are usually - and not coincidentally - 2-3 hours long.
No-one has asked the crucial question though: what grade would the crack get? Ondra made it look about 5.10.
Duma
Well-Known Member
bigironhorse said:
Exactly. Basically unwatchable live now, there's just so much dead time. I really can't see why joint finals shouldn't work, it should lend itself brilliantly to split screen - after all climbing is a vertical sport that we're watching in a landscape format. Just halve the TV down the middle and bob's your uncle.
Durbs
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Ah the commentary... It's getting better, or perhaps I'm getting immune, but it doesn't grate as much as it used to.
For some reason, I always preferred Daniel Webb, who was a commentator first, and got into a bit of climbing through the IFSC circuit. He could fill dead air well, obviously seemed to know and chat to the competitors so could give you interesting insights into their routines.
The current guys I like... they're just...dunno. Climbers first, commentators second?
It might come down to the fact they need to decide who they're speaking to; existing climbers who want the minutiae of each problem and attempt analysed, or new-to-the-sport who need constantly reminding what a zone is and how the scoring works...
Equally it comes down to personal taste; I like Liam Lonsdale as he's enthusiastic and obviously a massive fan (also, did you know he's mates with Alex Megos?!
), some people find him too shouty.
A non-qualifying semi-finalist makes a great co-commentator too quite often.
Didn't Partridge co-commentate once? I remember that being both hilarious and insightful.
It ties into the running time as well though; bearing in mind they've already talked through the semis, then a 4-hour live stream... That's a lot of time to talk through!
I guess if budgets stretch to it, guys and girls should be run as separate events,on different days. I think the split in viewers would be equal, or as near as makes no difference.
Or bring back split-screen. When it worked, it was great - and the streams have moved up a notch in terms of production that I'd hope crucial moments wouldn't be missed.
As it is, I'm not ever going to watch a stream live, and even on catch-up, it'll be skipped through.
For some reason, I always preferred Daniel Webb, who was a commentator first, and got into a bit of climbing through the IFSC circuit. He could fill dead air well, obviously seemed to know and chat to the competitors so could give you interesting insights into their routines.
The current guys I like... they're just...dunno. Climbers first, commentators second?
It might come down to the fact they need to decide who they're speaking to; existing climbers who want the minutiae of each problem and attempt analysed, or new-to-the-sport who need constantly reminding what a zone is and how the scoring works...
Equally it comes down to personal taste; I like Liam Lonsdale as he's enthusiastic and obviously a massive fan (also, did you know he's mates with Alex Megos?!
), some people find him too shouty. A non-qualifying semi-finalist makes a great co-commentator too quite often.
Didn't Partridge co-commentate once? I remember that being both hilarious and insightful.
It ties into the running time as well though; bearing in mind they've already talked through the semis, then a 4-hour live stream... That's a lot of time to talk through!
I guess if budgets stretch to it, guys and girls should be run as separate events,on different days. I think the split in viewers would be equal, or as near as makes no difference.
Or bring back split-screen. When it worked, it was great - and the streams have moved up a notch in terms of production that I'd hope crucial moments wouldn't be missed.
As it is, I'm not ever going to watch a stream live, and even on catch-up, it'll be skipped through.
I found the commentary fine, and although I initially didn't like the split finals format I don't mid it now. The fact that less is going on makes it easier to have on in the background whilst stretching, and with a longer finals you get more evening worth (if you can avoid the result on the web). Means I'm less likely to bother buying Netflix too
andy popp
Well-Known Member
duncan said:
From the horse's mouth: "it was 5.11 crack except for the last move which was more 5.12 and required some pulling. It was a good handjam but not the easiest one to place."
Muenchener
Well-Known Member
... whereas full stop and comma go forward and back single frames: useful if you want to see exactly what Janja and Akiyo are doing with that swinging leg thing when they catch dynos.
xelaxela
Well-Known Member
Shame about Gabriele Moroni not making the Italian team as he only competes in Bouldering and does anyone know why Miho Nonaka isn't at the first couple of rounds this season?
Personally I prefer the split format. I used to hate missing bits. I understand that 4 hours is a long time if watched in one go, but I tend to watch a bit at a time after the live stream has ended.
I also prefer having more content, as unlike sports such as Football, F1, Cricket etc. the World Cup season doesnt have that many rounds and there can sometimes be a long time between rounds.
Personally I prefer the split format. I used to hate missing bits. I understand that 4 hours is a long time if watched in one go, but I tend to watch a bit at a time after the live stream has ended.
I also prefer having more content, as unlike sports such as Football, F1, Cricket etc. the World Cup season doesnt have that many rounds and there can sometimes be a long time between rounds.
