IFSC 2019
- Thread starter Duma
- Start date
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Muenchener
Well-Known Member
GraemeA said:
I'm sure you know, but I'm not seeing where in the rules it's actually forbidden for lead. "Only brushes and other materiel provided by the Event Organiser" only appears under bouldering.
GraemeA
FTM
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
- Messages
- 1,885
It would be excluded under:
"3.14 All technical equipment used by a competitor shall comply with the applicable Applicable Standard.
Each competitor:
A) shall wear climbing shoes and (where relevant) a sit-harness during their attempts;
B) may use at their discretion a chalk bag and chalk (dry or liquid) for their hands. No other
performance enhancing agents may be used (e.g. resin)."
"3.14 All technical equipment used by a competitor shall comply with the applicable Applicable Standard.
Each competitor:
A) shall wear climbing shoes and (where relevant) a sit-harness during their attempts;
B) may use at their discretion a chalk bag and chalk (dry or liquid) for their hands. No other
performance enhancing agents may be used (e.g. resin)."
Ballsofcottonwool
Well-Known Member
no tape gloves for hand jams then?
Presumably there's an exception for tape, otherwise everyone's breaking the rules all the time? And sure I've seen insta footage of Hojer with a kneepad on?
[here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz0HF-xIrMt/]
Is it a new rule, or do they just not enforce it?
[here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz0HF-xIrMt/]
Is it a new rule, or do they just not enforce it?
GraemeA
FTM
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
- Messages
- 1,885
abarro81 said:
Ondra has used knee pads in the past, and had asked whether they were allowed, he was told yes. Euro Lead Champs in Italy 2016.
Maybe we need to specifically allow tape. Or specifically outlaw own brushes.
Tape gloves would probably be allowed. I could imagine that in a boulder final where there is observation someone might tape up.
Fiend
Whut
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2004
- Messages
- 13,859
Ratho: Bloody good semis and finals, some of the best and most interesting routes I've seen this year, despite the lack of tops and that awkward rope-on-foothold dyno. Great variety and some proper climbing.
Xiamen: Can't remember so much about it?? The wall arena was cool, I think Women's final was really cool. Was Men's too easy?? Setting was not nearly as good as Ratho.
Inzai: Good stuff. Wall arena was dismal but routes were good and packed a lot into their length. Interesting moves and a good split for both fields. Both of the obligatory dyno moves were far more interesting than usual. I liked the M's winner's style, he an Ondra-ish combination of analysis and dropping a gear when needed.
Pity there's not much more left!!
Xiamen: Can't remember so much about it?? The wall arena was cool, I think Women's final was really cool. Was Men's too easy?? Setting was not nearly as good as Ratho.
Inzai: Good stuff. Wall arena was dismal but routes were good and packed a lot into their length. Interesting moves and a good split for both fields. Both of the obligatory dyno moves were far more interesting than usual. I liked the M's winner's style, he an Ondra-ish combination of analysis and dropping a gear when needed.
Pity there's not much more left!!
Dexter
Well-Known Member
webbo said:
When people ask how hard the routes are now you can say "oh around hxs"
moose
el flaco lento
Dexter said:
Or the grade Mick Fowler reserved for particularly loose chossfests, "unjustifiable"!
