IFSC 2019

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

Duma

Duma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
5,979
Location
in the moment
So, qualifiers underway in Meringen. Guess it'll be an interesting season with the Olympics coming up, plenty of route climbers in the boulder WCs (Romain Desgranges climbing today) and vice versa.

Looks like men's qualifiers too easy? Megos may miss out despite 5 tops. Nathan Phillips crushing for brits, Ondra looking good, Schubert struggling.
 
Saying Nathan is crushing is a bit of an understatement he flashed all five problems. The only person to do so in a full strength World Cup.
 
With only 20 places and so many strong climbers there are always going to be big names missing out so i think it is better to highlight the unexpected qualifiers.
The 3 that are a surprise to me are YuFei Pan (lead climber), Stefano Ghisolfi (lead climber) and Tim Reusser.
Anze might be a shock for some I was at the Studio Bloc Masters the other week and he beat a strong field there.

Women's start in 30 minutes.
 
Hey Graeme, wasn't meaning to denigrate anyone - agree there'll always be some "big" names not qualifying. Yeah Ghisolfini was a shock - though he'd not climbed when I posted. My knowledge of the lead climbers is sadly lacking...
 
Don't worry Duma, I didn't think that you wee denigrating anyone.

But good to see 3 through to the semi finals. Nathan and Shauna we kind of expect but great job from Emily.

Hopefully the stream will be good tomorrow as well as the setting and streaming :)
 
GraemeA said:
Don't worry Duma, I didn't think that you wee denigrating anyone.

But good to see 3 through to the semi finals. Nathan and Shauna we kind of expect but great job from Emily.

Hopefully the stream will be good tomorrow as well as the setting and streaming :)
Click to expand...

How do you “Wee denigrate”?

Sounds kinky.


Or is it a Scotish term for calling someone unusually short and ungrateful?
 
Enjoyed that, Ondra looks in great shape.

always impressed by Akiyo's continuing brilliance. Thought Shauna looked a bit rusty but through comfortably enough in the end - impressive one hand catch on W2.

Shame Emily and Nathan looked a bit over awed after their brilliant qualifying results.#

Finals at 6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jykdXzZsRWg
 
As a non comp climber I’m not a huge fan every boulder problem at the wall being a weird awkward dyno, and it does seem the trend comes from something designed to be visually impressive.
But the ‘trick start’ on problem one there just again didn’t really appeal to me to watch either. I don’t know, just doesn’t seem like a skill I’m interested it.
 
Do you think it's a product of setters operating at a lower level than the competitors?

I imagine if you're a 8A boulderer setting for these guys, to set something basic you run quite a high risk of it being too easy or too hard. To get good separation these tricks are a more reliable way of getting it.
 
Danny said:
Ondra pathing the crack was some craic.
Click to expand...

Cracked me up ;-)

Yeah was ace. Impressed how he's adapted to the style, though you could see on the first two boulders the Japanese still looked more comfortable IMO

I don't really have an issue with the parkour stuff, think Graeme has gone through the reasons it's gone that way before on here.
Thought the women's problems were a good mix, W3 in particular.
 
I’ve never bothered watching comps before this. For a number of reasons, but mainly a lack of curiosity. Anyway, 7-year-old daughter (who is just starting comps) and I watched the finals video yesterday and were totally mesmerised. When she appeared this morning she was chatting away about technique (toe-hooks in particular) and Fanny Gibert’s amazing skills. Definitely tuning in for the next round...
 
I only watched it because I was supposed to be prepping for a job interview but was equally hooked!
 
Technically - a great effort too. No glitches, streaming issues or other annoyances. On-screen graphics were also good.

Still not a fan of separate comps. The near 4-hour run time just means i end up skipping between attempts, which takes away a lot of the atmosphere, but I simply don't have 4 hours to dedicate to watching it in full, even in 2x 2-hour stints it's tricky to fit in.

Men's - Overall covered a broad range of styles, which is a good thing. Dynos, hand jam (lulz!), slabs... no obviously raw-power moves off minging crimps, but likely because they're all massively powerful.

Didn't like the start of M1 - run n' jump starts are sooooo 2016.

W3 was great, as was M...3? Always fun watching wads flail on a mantle.

Women's should be close this year; Janja is obviously on another level, but doesn't seem immune to over/under-thinking routes, or just mis-reading them. Akiyo continues to be amazing, Fanny continues her good run and Shauna looked great, especially given the extended time out.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top