Ross Barker
Deathly afraid of traverses
Wellsy said:18kgs added weight on a 10mm edge for ten seconds
That's insanely strong for only font 7A.
Wellsy said:18kgs added weight on a 10mm edge for ten seconds
Liamhutch89 said:If what you say is true then what i'm saying is clearly wrong, but i'm yet to see anyone 1 arm a lattice rung and then max out at 7B on rock. Are there really lots of people who can do this?
It means you've great basic finger strength and can look forward to climbing much harder than 7A in the future. Current training emphasis could be elsewhere: flexibility; movement skills, especially on rock? Climb with people better than you.Wellsy said:I can definitely at least 20kgs added weight on my base weight of 75kgs on a 20mm edge for 7 seconds and 7A is my max outdoor bouldering grade. I dunno what that means at all though.
I'm sure Lattice are aware of it. It's just an indication that people interested in training tend to be good at training exercises. You can't put 'from a database of obsessive training nerds, 140% of bodyweight for 7 seconds on a 20mm edge is typical of 8a route climbers' in your marketing material though.Paul B said:I'm sure Dave Mac wrote something about potential bias in things such as the lattice dataset.
Liamhutch89 said:I like the cynicism ;D. I also fall short in terms of finger strength according to Lattice, but that's kind of my point: it's seldom the other way round (at least i've not heard anyone admit to it...). With sufficient cunning you can usually trick your way up something harder than your fingers allow for (particularly on grit), but i've seen people with strong fingers campus up problems where I had to use every trick in the book!
Paul B said:I think trying to work efficiency once you're overly strong is particularly tricky; firstly it takes a toll mentally but if you're physically able, it's really hard to stop yourself 'over-powering' something etc.
I'm sure Dave Mac wrote something about potential bias in things such as the lattice dataset.
M1V0 said:Liamhutch89 said:If what you say is true then what i'm saying is clearly wrong, but i'm yet to see anyone 1 arm a lattice rung and then max out at 7B on rock. Are there really lots of people who can do this?
I do have a friend who is *insanely* strong in metrics, but performs poorly on rock. He's hanging with weight one-armed on the Lattice edge (I think his predicted potential was ~8B/+ form fingers alone) and goodness knows how many one-arm pull-ups he can do/what weight he can pull, BUT has maxed out at 7B+ on rock. Technique is appalling, like it is painful to watch him climb. Like feet don't exist. Interestingly, this also applies to board climbing, he maxes out on the Moon board at about 7B I think.
Wellsy said:I like the fun game of take a problem you can do laps on, and carefully work out the easiest way to do it. Experiment with the sequence and moves, find the best way up. Quite a fun way to spend time IMO
duncan said:I'm not a complete cynic...
Wellsy said:it's all very well saying "climb better" but how? Where's my technique bad?
SA Chris said:Wellsy said:it's all very well saying "climb better" but how? Where's my technique bad?
See my original post?
Wellsy said:SA Chris said:Wellsy said:it's all very well saying "climb better" but how? Where's my technique bad?
See my original post?
Oh aye I'm more saying that the hypothetical climber asks that question and it's not the easiest to work out. You're not wrong though.
Doylo said:The first is ‘injuries make you stronger in the long run’ - in reality they make you miserable, you lose years of hard Work if a long one and time you’ll never get back.
#BollocksSayings