How to build a woodie

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More questions. I'm sure this has been covered, but what is the lowdown on painting a home wall?

I like the black non-sticky paint of the Kilterboard. Seems to leave no visible rubber marks from shoes. How do I achieve this? Assume that I have no knowledge of painting.
 
Surely painting it white and hating yourself for every single imprecise foot placement for the rest of time is a far more JWI solution :whip:
 
Everyone assumes that I will be the sole user of this wall, but my other half is more keen on climbing than I am.

I never drag a foot along a board, obviously. But others might.

Is chalkboard paint still the beta?
 
I can't help with black. I went with a matte varnish and you can just wipe off the rubber marks when you wish/can be bothered.
 
jwi said:
Everyone assumes that I will be the sole user of this wall, but my other half is more keen on climbing than I am.

I never drag a foot along a board, obviously. But others might.

Is chalkboard paint still the beta?

A little late in the day but…
I used Matt furniture paint and considered black but thought it may be a bit gloomy. I went for dark grey in the end with some light gray for surrounds. I’m pleased with the results and you can barely see any rubber from your other half’s drags :hug:

Hope you and J well
 
Any recommendations for some positive board footholds?

Due to have a baby soon so I am looking for some really positive feet which will help my wife get back on the board when the time is right. They need to be screw on holds
 
I'd go for these James, they do 30mm ones too https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p179/Core_20mm_Foot_Holds.html
 
Dingdong said:
I'd go for these James, they do 30mm ones too https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p179/Core_20mm_Foot_Holds.html

Cheers, they look perfect! We currently use the wooden domes on their website. I don’t know how i missed the others when looking the other day.

It’s nice they can flip as well once the incut side becomes fine to use :strongbench:
 
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/product/geo-screw-on-feet-20mm/

Cheaper and more colours direct from Core
 
We do 18 & 25mm oak blocks, one to consider in the options mix :)

https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/wooden-climbing-foot-blocks/
 
As I asked a few questions on this thread before, I thought I could be a good idea to post a short review of the board I build. It can also be useful for others who think about getting the mini moonboard.

https://steepground.blogspot.com/2024/01/mini-moonboard-review.html

For those who cannot be bothered to read all that: I really like the mini.

The blogpost is a slightly edited translation of a review I wrote in Swedish. The translation is done by myself and machines (never translate yourself and never use the method of editing machinetranslation regardless of how little time you have), so apologies in advance for the clunky writing.
 
It's possible to change the effective angle of a board by using volumes, which could be handy when making replicas. The problem is that I don't want these volumes on my board all the time. Can anyone think of a way to quickly attach/detach volumes (e.g. some sort of quick release brackets)? If I have to drive screws in each session then the plywood will soon look like a sieve.
 
If you want them in the same places could you just T nut the right spots and then add recessed bolt holes in the corners of the volumes?
 
Unfortunately, I can't get to the back of my board without taking the ply off otherwise that would have been a good idea!
 
Some sort of French cleat? Either made yourself with wood or using something like these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BDHI-Aluminum-Supports-Interlocking-01/dp/B09YNF5ST6/ref=asc_df_B09YNF5ST6/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=588076632935&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18280423684178559871&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006912&hvtargid=pla-1660082438826&psc=1&mcid=90fa36a87e5f336384be2ba69289b88b
 
Or could you reverse build them to your board? Sort out the volume base/ fixings to fit your existing T nuts, then build the volume onto that with a panel on it you screw/unscrew to reach the bolts…
 
Cut a square hole in the board (with a multi tool), feed a rectangular bit of wood with a t-nut in it through the hole and secure it either side. Replace the square with a mildly oversized hole to make things flush and use with a long bolt to secure whatever.

Alternatively overlay with plywood pre drilled and t-nutted and drill through the original plywood so the bolt has somewhere to go. This would probably need marking, drilling and then refitting.
 
I like the sound of the plywood pattress with T-nut. Seems straightforward, cheap and effective.

I don't have any T-nuts on my board currently otherwise I would have just built volumes around them. I'm not sure a French cleat would give enough lateral stability.
 
Ive seen something similar with the french cleats. You could try having a couple of additional cleats spun 90 deg, spun opposite to each other, this would stop any sideways movement. It would take some giggery pokery to get them lined up.
Failing that could you slap a couple of bits of 2x2, fixed to the board, with a 10mm hole through at 90 deg. And fix tnut to volume and m10 bolt through 2x2 into tnut in volume. Done on both side of volume it would hold it. Not pretty.
 
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