Hold repair beta thread

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I know you probably aren't daft, but as an occasional angle-grinder user whilst abseiling (and not a rope access worker), be careful as fuck if you do this.
 
abarro81 said:
Bonjoy said:
Squirting some thin superglue down first may bind the calcite.

What's the logic with this? Does the superglue penetrate the rock in a way that the resin doesn't? Is thin best just because of ease of application or is there something else about it? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the answers!
Yes, low viscosity sg is thinner than water and wicks into porous rock very well. Resin doesn't wick in much at all. For very short bonds sg is strong I.e. between grains in a porous matrix, so is decent for hardening and bonding a soft layer. It's poor at filling voids though, unless used with a granular material (for cosmetic repairs I've used sg mixed with sand for instance).
All resins I've used leave a nasty chemical film when they dry. This weathers away after a while though. Ragging and brushing is effective enough in the short term.
 
If you go for low viscosity sg make sure you get a quality product. I ordered some cheap stuff the other day and the glue that arrived was, if anything, more viscous than standard sg.
 
Any advice on how to stabilise this flake? It is the top hold to a few problems and whilst I don't think it currently moves, it does look and feel pretty insecure. It does look like someone has had a go at fixing it in place previously along with some other holds at the crag. I'm not sure on when this was done but it was definitely over ten years ago and doesn't look the smartest job.
qcGdr8m.jpg

pvBmQhI.jpg

I appreciate the best thing to do would be to prize it off, clean it up and then stick it back on but it is quite large and might be hard work to hold it in place whilst the glue sets.

Would pumping the back of it full of resin work at all?

If it did come off it is of a size and at a height that it could seriously injure someone if it landed on them. It would probably leave behind something useable and wouldn't make the problems any harder but it would leave a less satisfying finishing hold.
 
Looks like it could do with a couple of pins to hold it in place while the glue sets.

You could drill it before pulling it off so all the holes line up, then pull it off, clean it up, stick the pins I'm and then smash a load of glue on to hold it on properly.
 
One options short of removal would be to stick on a support block to fill in the 90 angle on the underside. This could be well fixed and would greatly reduce the load and leverage on the existing bonds. I'd still reglue the hold as much as possible as well. Obviously it will look less discrete then a hidden repair like pins, but might not look so bad if you picked a well matched triangular wedge of rock.
 
m.cooke.1421 said:
Any advice on how to stabilise this flake? It is the top hold to a few problems and whilst I don't think it currently moves, it does look and feel pretty insecure. It does look like someone has had a go at fixing it in place previously along with some other holds at the crag. I'm not sure on when this was done but it was definitely over ten years ago and doesn't look the smartest job.
qcGdr8m.jpg

pvBmQhI.jpg

I appreciate the best thing to do would be to prize it off, clean it up and then stick it back on but it is quite large and might be hard work to hold it in place whilst the glue sets.

Would pumping the back of it full of resin work at all?

If it did come off it is of a size and at a height that it could seriously injure someone if it landed on them. It would probably leave behind something useable and wouldn't make the problems any harder but it would leave a less satisfying finishing hold.

Let me know if you want any help. I can’t offer any specific skills but I can hold a ladder etc.

Guy
 
Thanks for the suggestions and the offer of help. I think I'll have a good look at the back of it from a rope before deciding what to do but I like the idea of a supporting block.
 
Hi all, any advice would be welcome. Looked at a new grit route which has a sizeable flake on it. The horizontal top of the flake is about 1m wide. The left edge is about 20cm long and the right edge about 1m long. The cavity behind is about 3cm so the volume of space behind the flake is large. Unfortunately the flake makes a disconcerting bong sound when tapped. It is okay to pull on but provides the only gear on the route. It would be disastrous if it came off in a fall.

Might it be possible to stabilise it by pouring loads of resin down the back? There’s no way to access the space and pulling the flake off is a no-no.

Thanks.
 
Ready mix mortar might be an option for that kind of volume. You can get ones with resin additives for extra strength. Why is removal and refix not an option? Done properly it gives the best fix and the neatest visual result.
 
Thanks for the swift reply Bonjoy. The flake- or more apt might be shield- is really large >1m square- and is fully intact, it just booms. It’s also nearly 15m up a major grit crag. I think you would have to crowbar it off and have no clear idea where it would fracture or how to secure a thing of that size.

A mix of resin and mortar sounds interesting. Where could you get that from please?
 
Something like this - https://www.toolstation.com/epoxyset-105-standard-concrete-repair/p46209?store=MB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=s_dc&pcrid=515847200342&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjwmqKJBhAWEiwAMvGt6ISrgo1SGTDdK8jDeCsD5ollIaRNZnPdNWtYlPYDOeR5Urj7-s6W_RoC3S8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Hallo. Can anyone recommend the strongest resin to use for glueing granite? I pulled a small chickenhead off a project and would like to reattach it.
 
Pure Epoxy is the best option for strength. It has a longer drying time than the alternatives, but worth it if you need the extra strength.
 
Got a couple of questions about glueing limestone holds. I have always used this stuff for fixing loose holds

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-kem-psc-380-ef-polyester-resin-380ml/1245j.

It's worked very well, but wondering what is best for holds that have come off entirely. Pure epoxy is mentioned above, would that be something like this?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-2-part-epoxy-adhesive-tubes-pale-yellow-30ml/111KH?tc=EH7&ds_rl=1249416&gclid=CjwKCAjwxr2iBhBJEiwAdXECw7KbjCBpHsufoGjKBxjZtNrD80ESE105OSTzqxM9mk7ev5sCoqZHqRoCVh0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I also want to sure up a hold that is slightly wobbly, but the fractures around it are very small and needs something quite low viscosity to get in there. Would something as simple as super glue do the job here? TIA
 
Yes, that sort of epoxy should do the job. It's also available in full size gun resin tubed.
I,ve used superglue down hairline cracks and thin flakes. It sometimes works well. It can get in quite deep due to the capillary effect and bonds quite well if its a very thin crack and both sides match.
 
"This (new routing) machine kills fascists"...
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/swastika-removed-apr24

Good one
 

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