Historical Nuggets

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

andy popp said:
Ted, a few posts before you mentioned a culture of downgrading. As an extremely peripheral participant on Peak lime in the 90s I remember that culture well - it was pretty much expected that everything would be downgraded.

haha, almost a badge of honour to sandbag something so it couldn't possibly be downgraded! ;D
 
WRT Nic's downgrading of Evolution, it may or may not have something to do with the fact, if i remeber correctly, that Nic was really fucked off that Jerry had 'nicked' Progress.

Progress was named after a club night. As was Make It Funky.
 
@Remus - There should be a massive 'Route name history' database.. that gives an explanation of the routename history.. Its such a massive and colourful component of climbing history. We were pontificating over the "Bream in Black" name at cheedale embankment the other day.. bit of digging and of course its a Gary Gibson Stranglers reference - there were nicknamed the 'Men in Black'
 
SamT said:
@Remus - There should be a massive 'Route name history' database.. that gives an explanation of the routename history.. Its such a massive and colourful component of climbing history. We were pontificating over the "Bream in Black" name at cheedale embankment the other day.. bit of digging and of course its a Gary Gibson Stranglers reference - there were nicknamed the 'Men in Black'

I think working it out for yourself or being told it by someone in the know is equally fun though. eg 'They Brush Me' at Kilnsey is an anagram of 'Thumb-Heresy'- the route starts up the Thumb and finishes up the old trad route Heresy (now Complete Control). Can't even remember where i learned that now!
 
Excellent stuff! I miss the days when news was reported by the mags not by the athletes themselves on their instas... :boohoo:
 
Thanks for digging out those articles Ted, and Neil for writing it in the first place!

Loving the route name explanations too. I've added these to climbing-history.org, would be keen for more if anyone has more.

I'm completely rubbish at working them out myself. Strapadictomy took me years, even when I knew it was meant to be funny :slap:

p.s. I've consolidated progress into a single page on climbing-history. Doesn't seem clear that a pre/post hold deterioration distinction is worth making here, and it seems like it was probably around 8c+ at the time of the FA anyway.
 
Kingy said:
Excellent stuff! I miss the days when news was reported by the mags not by the athletes themselves on their instas... :boohoo:

You never know, maybe Aidan et al are hoarding a bunch of news for the next issue of Spotter (although Id settle for another baking recipe instead)
 
remus said:
Strapadictomy took me years, even when I knew it was meant to be funny :slap:
You know Strapiombo, Strapiombante and Strappotente are Overhang, Overhanging and Overwhelming in Italian?
 
remus said:
Thanks for digging out those articles Ted, and Neil for writing it in the first place!

Loving the route name explanations too. I've added these to climbing-history.org, would be keen for more if anyone has more.

I'm completely rubbish at working them out myself. Strapadictomy took me years, even when I knew it was meant to be funny :slap:

p.s. I've consolidated progress into a single page on climbing-history. Doesn't seem clear that a pre/post hold deterioration distinction is worth making here, and it seems like it was probably around 8c+ at the time of the FA anyway.
I always wondered if Marrowbone Jelly was named because it lies between P sycho, A drenlalin Rush and L ittle Cenotaph, (PAL) and older readers might remember the old TV adverts for PAL dogfood that stated 'PAL contains Marrowbone Jelly'.

And, no, you just don't get that quality weed anymore....
 
sherlock said:
I always wondered if Marrowbone Jelly was named because it lies between P sycho, A drenlalin Rush and L ittle Cenotaph, (PAL) and older readers might remember the old TV adverts for PAL dogfood that stated 'PAL contains Marrowbone Jelly'.

And, no, you just don't get that quality weed anymore....

I want it to be true! Anyone know Al Manson to confirm or deny?
 
The Climbers Club have made high quality scans of all their old guidebooks up to ~1998 available for free via their website. Proper treasure trove!

https://climbers-club.co.uk/history/historic-guidebooks
 

Latest posts

Back
Top