Looking for some beta on this one from those who can help.
I’ve unlocked the crux move on my project with a heel hook and it now involves a hard hand match on a fairly decent crimp.
Specifics
-Half pad crimp with just enough room for all four of my fingers
-Thumb catch on left hand side of crimp which is useful.
-First hand to latch hold is left hand.
-Right hand to come in to match crimp and release left hand.
- Heel is ok but not enough weight on feet neither the hold positive enough to slide one hand under the other in a dynamic fashion.
I’ve done the match couple times but want to dial the technique and make more efficient.
What do people suggest to make this move repeatable and efficient as subsequent moves are hard?
If it’s a piano match could someone break that down from their experience in detail.
Thanks
I’ve unlocked the crux move on my project with a heel hook and it now involves a hard hand match on a fairly decent crimp.
Specifics
-Half pad crimp with just enough room for all four of my fingers
-Thumb catch on left hand side of crimp which is useful.
-First hand to latch hold is left hand.
-Right hand to come in to match crimp and release left hand.
- Heel is ok but not enough weight on feet neither the hold positive enough to slide one hand under the other in a dynamic fashion.
I’ve done the match couple times but want to dial the technique and make more efficient.
What do people suggest to make this move repeatable and efficient as subsequent moves are hard?
If it’s a piano match could someone break that down from their experience in detail.
Thanks