Grit route/highball Last Great Problems....

[AndiT]

Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!

 

[Oli]

The double aretes to the left of the Notorious BLG were well chalked up aboout 3 weeks ago. So that may/should go this winter.

 

[irish si]

BLG RIP

 

[unclesomebody]

Notorious BLG is fine as can be seen here;

http://just-another-chic.blogspot.com/

as for Notorious BIG. He wasn't so lucky.

 

[soapy]

lieutenant worf i presume?

 

[irish si]

Bungle be careful not to be disrespectful. You do know who the true notorious BLG is i presume. I was under the impression that he was as infamous as colorado bouldering grades.

 

[Doylo]

Bungle be careful not to be disrespectful. You do know who the true notorious BLG is i presume. I was under the impression that he was as infamous as colorado bouldering grades.

Not even the great BLG is that infamous!

 

[Andy F]

To get this thread back on track, The Midas Touch on the Golden Tower, Anglezarke needs tidying up by soloing, without resorting to side runners (like wot I lead it with). Probably E7 6c for the solo.

 

[Will Hunt]

Correct me if Im wrong but...

Surely its poor form to describe things as the "last great problems". Ive heard this term bandied around a lot and it seems to me that there are always going to be new great problems as the standard of climbing gets better. In t' olden days (I may be wrong but I think I saw this on Hard Grit) they were describing what is now E3 or thereabouts as the last great problems. What if some genius develops a new form of protection that simply sticks to flat rock as opposed to having to be placed in breaks/cracks etc. Unethical sounding and I dont know how it would work (not a scientist) but this would make just about anything other than rough, weak or uneven rock protectable. And as people train harder and harder or stickier rubber is invented then people might start climbing much much harder.

Anyway, all Im saying is that there are a seemingly infintessimal amount of "great" lines and problems to be done. In the 1900's who would have thought that Rhapsody would have been possible. In the 1700's who wouldnt have laughed at someone who said that one day humans would fly around in metal tubes. The standard of climbing has not yet reached is peak and with new technological advantages Im taking a Bosrupian view on the future of climbing.

Sorry if I just spouted bullshit.

 

[Teaboy]

Anyway, all Im saying is that there are a seemingly infintessimal amount of "great" lines and problems to be done.

So name one and you will have made a reasonable contribution to this thread, otherwise you are, as you say, just spouting shite

 

[Bonjoy]

Will Hunt - Your simplistic vision of the future is missing a crucial point. Progress in difficulty is not linear over time. Progress is constrained within the bounds of physics. Take dynos as a simplified example. Over the years the distance people can dyno has increased, but the increase gets ever smaller as we approach the boundry of physical possibility. It is simplistic to assume that we will be making 10 metre dynos by 2100. The only way this can happen is for one of the immutables to change eg gravity, human physiology. Short of genetic/cybernetic engineering we will continue to make infinitesimal (BTW this means imeasurably tiny and tending toward zero, not infinate) gains in height, these will be ever more small and hard to acheive. The other major limiting factor then comes into play. When the difference between the worlds biggest dyno and the point beyond which any human can dyno gets so small it is measured in millimetres, how many of these are you likely to find on real rock? 99.9999...% of the dynos you find will be either side of this advancement range. It is a fact that the harder standards become the harder it becomes to find sufficiently hard lines on rock which aren't plain impossible. I'm not saying we have reached a point where standards can't improve (in fact I believe this point is unreachable), grades will increase because the closer to impossible you get the more extra difficulty will arise from a given unit of change in the perameters of the climb i.e. each extra millimeter dynoed is exponentially harder than the last. Basically it will be possible to squeeze quite a few grade rises out of small changes in the rock geometry. But crucially it will get to a point where it is nigh on impossible to find the next step forward on the random medium of rock. Ultimately the only way to make the next step forward will be on artificially produced problems, be they on rock or climbing wall.

 

[AndiT]

I think I need a lie down after that Jon ???

 

[grimer]

Agree Bonjoy. It says something when the Cratcliffe groove, essentially about seven feet of climbing, is regarded as a last great problem.

 

[Andy F]

I think I need some ibruprofen after that...

 

[Bonjoy]

One bunch of bullshit deserves another.

 

[unclesomebody]

Bullshit? I thought your post made absolute sense bonjoy. But maybe I would....

 

[Bonjoy]

Glad it made sense to someone. Got lost a bit at the end, so have edited for clarity

 

[Andy F]

It made sense, it just, well, hurt a bit reading it

 

[Fiend]

Progress in difficulty is not linear over time.

That says it all really.

 

[cofe]

i only read the bit in italics at the end which says 'bonjoy; reason; clarity' - is that your purpose statement?