Grit route/highball Last Great Problems....

[Johnny Brown]

You guys have been watching too much Life Aquatic.

 

[Jim]

thats a dynamite film which i need to watch again.

where is his problem, highball thing?

 

[Jim]

For those who haven't seen this on the Yellowslacks thread. 'Miles's Project' at Ravenstones, I get the impression it's an open project.

Certainly seems to fit the bill for this thread!

Saw this last week on a bike ride with my son, looks amazing. Has it been done yet?

 

[mark20]

Chalked line a mere E6ish thing I think, must go back and finish it.
But the blank arete to the right, climbed on the left hand side, look very hard indeed. Slightly 'worse than square cut', vertical, perfect hard quarried grit, with no edges to hold the barndoor and not much in the way of smears for the feet either. There is a hold to aim for at the top. With the rocky landing jigged about a bit, and a pile of pads it wouldn't be death but very high. E9 7a/b if possible? If only I could remember where it was... :whistle:

 

[andy popp]

Lovely!

 

[Fiend]

An actual hold?! How previous-generation...

 

[Fiend]

Some closer pics of The Warp Project if anyone needs it. Sheffside massive pull your skinny fingers out.

Landing might need a bit of "creativity"....good jug rail on the right to start, and then...... :-\

 

[mrjonathanr]

Where’s that Fiend?

 

[Fiend]

It's the thing on the separate buttress below Ravenstones, Chew Valley, that's quote a few posts up by Jim. Aka too hard for Miles Gibson :-\

 

[mrjonathanr]

Yeah, but what’s he done on grit?

 

[Fiend]

Quite a few unrepeated things at major crags :yes:

 

[SamT]

Thread resurrection.

Was out for a walk last night and walked passed that big slab/arete at the LHS of Millstone.

Looked flippin amazing in the evening sun last night.

Has it been done yet? It seems to have holds and everything. I know its been looked at by the great and the good. But then I'd have thought the next gen super wads, Ned/Jim etc would have had a pop too.

Is it just actually impossible?

 

[Liamhutch89]

Some closer pics of The Warp Project if anyone needs it. Sheffside massive pull your skinny fingers out.

I wouldn't mind having a look at this if anyone else was interested.

 

[edshakey]

Thread resurrection.

Was out for a walk last night and walked passed that big slab/arete at the LHS of Millstone.

Looked flippin amazing in the evening sun last night.

Has it been done yet? It seems to have holds and everything. I know its been looked at by the great and the good. But then I'd have thought the next gen super wads, Ned/Jim etc would have had a pop too.

Is it just actually impossible?

Is there a picture of this? I can't really remember if I've seen it or not, but it sounds stunning

 

[nik at work]

It’s very obvious as you drive up Ringinglow road, at the far end of Millstone set slightly lower than the rest of the quarry.
Arête definitely goes, the face is very very blank…

 

[andy moles]

In an act detached from any measure of realism, I abseiled down that once. Besides it being obviously far far too hard for me, I remember thinking the rock wasn't especially pleasant, maybe that's why it's not been done? Then again...

 

[JamieG]

Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.

 

[Bradders]

Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.

Didn't Will Atkinson do that ages ago?

 

[JamieG]

Has anyone tried the tank dyno at wimberry in the last few years (decades?). Looks pretty doable but clearly it’s not that easy. As I understand it’s staying on the top hold rather than the distance which is the challenge. But I may be wrong. I honestly don’t remember ever hearing of someone actually properly trying it. It just seems to have been a project forever.

Didn't Will Atkinson do that ages ago?

I’ve no idea! Did he?

 

[TdG]

The Millstone arete is an excellent line on some of the best quarried grit there is. Feels like it should be possible with some lateral thinking on sequence. The arete is sharp, but there's nothing very helpful on the face. Since there is nothing to pull on, being strong might not help much. And it is quite high.