Font classics in the 5-6b range

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

Dave Flanagan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Messages
733
Going to Font in a month and am keen to do a ticklist of sorts.
Looking for classics in the 5+to 6c range.
I like slopey aretes (like Delicatessen), steepish indoor style (like Duro or Coquille) and wacky head scratching problems (like Buerre).

This is what I have so far

Là où Finit la Raie des Fesses, 7a, Isatis http://bleau.info/isatis/1777.html
Delicatessen, 6c, Puiselet Le Paradis http://bleau.info/puiselet/9750-7174.html
Biotope, 7a, Puiselet Mont Sarrasin http://bleau.info/sarrazin/14322.html
Duroxmanie, 6c, Cuvier Est http://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html
Beatlejuice stand, 6a, Cusiniere
Le Surplomb de la Coquille, 6c, Franchard Hautes-Plaines http://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html
Beurre Marga, 6b+, Franchard Isatis http://bleau.info/isatis/1538.html
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial, 6b+, Franchard Isatis http://bleau.info/isatis/2355.html
91.1 Trio of highballs, 5+/6a
Travaux Forcés, 6b, Gorge aux Châts http://bleau.info/chats/1546.html
 
Chapeau Chinois 6B at Sabots

La Voie Michaut 6C indoors style at Elephant

Videos of a very handsome chap doing them are available from specialist outlets
 
big jim 6c-petit bois(ballsy)
carre d'as 6c-just round the courner from duroxmany(big ballsy!)
angle alain 5+
la lili 6c-cuvier(slight eliminate)
la marie rose 6a(just to get used to dodgy footholds)
la salade 6b(took me 2 visits,carnage only took me one visit!!)

look out for the new 5+6 guide due out the next month or two
 
I really enjoyed Le Bossu at Canon, 6bish. As well the prob to its left. The red circuit at Rocher Canon is littered with gret probs at that grade range.
 
The red circuit ar Gorge aux Chats has some good problems in this grade range.

At the lower end of the grade the blue circuit at Franchard Isatis was great fun, easy to add in a smattering of the reds too.
 
Heading to font for the first time this spring, perfect timing for this thread for me. Thanks for all the suggestions, hopefully will manage to get some of these done. :bounce:
 
Things that I have done:-

Buthiers
Surplomb de Marbre 6b
Swing Medium 6b

Cuisiniere
Moondance 6a

95.2
Duel dans la Lune 6c
Le Kilo de Beurre 5+

Isatis
Le Toit Ouvrant 6a
Le Surplomb Statique 6a+
Composition des Forces 6c

Bas Cuvier
Le Trou du Simon 6a

Elephant
Le Toit du Loup 6b

Gorge aux Chats
Arachnee 6b
Gigi 6b

I think this is a good mix of the type of problems you are after, maybe not as many slopy aretes though. All definitely worthwhile!
 
Andrew B said:
Things that I have done:-

Buthiers
Surplomb de Marbre 6b
Swing Medium 6b

Cuisiniere
Moondance 6a

95.2
Duel dans la Lune 6c
Le Kilo de Beurre 5+

Isatis
Le Toit Ouvrant 6a
Le Surplomb Statique 6a+
Composition des Forces 6c

Bas Cuvier
Le Trou du Simon 6a

Elephant
Le Toit du Loup 6b

Gorge aux Chats
Arachnee 6b
Gigi 6b

I think this is a good mix of the type of problems you are after, maybe not as many slopy aretes though. All definitely worthwhile!

Moondance is excellent, one of the best I've done at the grade in font. Worth searching out.
 
Thanks everyone. I have looked up all of them on bleau.info and added most to the list. I suspect I would need a few months to get them all done.
 
There is a good rising traverse through a roof at Drei Zinnen which I can't think of the name of. Well worth doing. I'll try and remember the name.
 
Don't complete that list yet... Here's a few more that are worth seeking out, that haven't been mentioned.

Elephant - La Dalle a Polly - 5+ Essential. Steep, juggy, highball, mega-pocket haul.

Bas Cuvier - La Digitale (aka La Fissure du Crocodile) - 5+
La Brioche - 6a - Steep Arete

Apremont Ouest - La Campanille - 4+ - No. 2 red High - given 6a in an old guide..

Apremont - La Balafre - 6a - No. 24 Salmon.
Le John Gill - 5+ - roof.

Restant du Long Rocher - Elixir de Bouldering - 6a - Traverse

Gorge Aux Chats - Travaux forces - 6b

Les Gros Sablons - La liberte - 6b - on most Bleasard's top problems list.

La Roche Aux Sabots - Service Compris - 6a (An easier dyno than Jet Set 7a which it shares holds with.)
 
Re. La Liberte - it's amazing, and also enormous. I backed off this and the other black to the left, and was going pretty well at the time. It's a fair walk too.
 
Duma said:
Re. La Liberte - it's amazing, and also enormous. I backed off this and the other black to the left, and was going pretty well at the time. It's a fair walk too.

Do not be discouraged.... It is amazing, worth the walk, the landing is very flat, it's not that high and it eases near the top. A king line if ever there was!
 
Back
Top