Final Stages of Pulley Recovery

[mctrials23]

Its been about 5.5 months since I injured my A2 and its still got a pain in there that is always nagging at me.

It doesn't really hurt when I climb but I can occasionally feel it a bit if I crimp too hard but its no a paid per se, its just that I can feel it. It seems to be better when I climb on it than when I have rested it for a few days to be honest.

Is this normal in the final stages of A2 pulley recovery or am I doing something wrong and delaying the full healing process by climbing on it quite hard. There is no point that is painful when I massage it (quite hard as well!). I'm just concerned because it wasn't a complete rupture and most people suggested that 3 months was about right for a partial tear to heal.

 

[tomtom]

Its a toughy - I sometimes get ghost pains where I've been injured - especially when recovering...

 

[duncan]

Pain is a poor indication of extent of damage. Sometimes things hurt when there is no damage, "ghost pain" is a good way of putting it. You should expect your finger to feel less than 100% at this stage. Keep going, increase the load, gradually, resist the temptation to go mad when if finally feels fixed.

Much more in this quasi-blog post.

 

[mctrials23]

I know its still not 100% healed and ready to pull super super hard on but for about 90% of climbing its fine. I can crimp on it hard unless I am putting nearly all my weight through that single hand on a really thin one.

I do wonder how much of it is that I have had this pain for 5 months plus and its become the norm rather than pain signals from remaining damage.

 

[mrjonathanr]

My experience has been that there comes a time - typically after 2 or 3 months - when you need to push it despite experiencing some discomfort to finish the healing/strengthening.

My guide would be whether it subsequently over next day(s) feels better or at least ok. If it feels worse, back up a bit.

 

[mctrials23]

I think I have pushed it too far a couple of times and set myself back a little as a result. I'm almost certain that I am not under stressing it. I am bouldering harder now than I was before I got injured in every style I would say.

Its not really a pain, just a nagging feeling when I damaged the pulley. It doesn't really ache if I have a very sedentary day where my fingers are not moving at all but when I am typing all day I can feel it at times.

 

[mrjonathanr]

Maybe some scar tissue to massage out?

 

[ArtistFormerlyKnwnAsDoylo]

That link was interesting. My finger made a big pop last week and I'm confused that I don't have much pain. Am worried I'm going to push it too much because it doesn't hurt as much as I would expect.

 

[rodma]

That link was interesting. My finger made a big pop last week and I'm confused that I don't have much pain. Am worried I'm going to push it too much because it doesn't hurt as much as I would expect.

I've had scar tissue in my palm let go with a wee pop, which which had a similar outcome.

 

[french erick]

For personal reasons took more than 2/3 months off (new born baby 2 days after the pop of doom).
Once started again, increased climbing over 1 month and a half to a decent 80% full capacity using tape.
Now started to climb untaped for certain session aero cap/ cracks/ milage trad (not pushing the grade). Continue to climbed taped when pushing it or if crimpy.
There is a slight pain which I would qualify as "ghost pain" immediately after a heavy session but that's it.
This is my first experience of this injury. Made me think a lot (with help of books like make or break)- I concentrate a lot of my time and frustration at not climbing 100% in changing my bad life (posture) and climbing habit.
It's not slowed me down massively and I hope it'll set me up good for the coming year.

BTW: I'm no climbing guru, I can barely OS 7a, E4; redpoint around 7b/+; can get some Font 7a in my style to give you an idea