Entree

[fatdoc]

err.....

yeah. i apologise, still the same route I was thinking off though. still think it's a fairly stiff proposition... hell, i dont do routes no more and my mind is clearly failing. sorry.

 

[Andy Harris]

Personally I'd put Entree in at 8a+. It's just too damn hard for 8a. I'd agree with boulder grade of solid 7c and very fingery at it. Similar to Culloden, PUTP. Remember PUTP got graded 8a for years until it was upgraded.

Chris Gore was mighty strong of the crimp.

 

[Stahl]

These short things are hard to grade. It's a bit harder than Baby Chimes, but not harder than the full thing. OOMT must be bottom end 8a? I reckon it's easier than short Peak 8a+s like PUTP, Masculine Power Trip, Gonads. Maybe Gonads is a bit too long for this category. It's also easier than The Inch Test, which should get 8a+ but doesn't. It's at least a full grade, if not more, easier than Love of Money.

 

[Paul B]

I still would say its harder than:
The sissy
Dangerous Bro's
Salar
R & H
Which are all fairly bouldery routes although I know Salar's grade is always debated.

 

[The Sausage]

My view is that it's always important to have proper sandbags, not only for visiting climbers, but also to stop the inevitable grade creep and to keep us all humble. There's something very un-twenty first century about having to put more effort in for less reward that makes the whole process wierdly satisfying.

 

[north_country_boy]

Its a damn sight harder than Baby Chimes! Can't really compare it to full chimes as the top of chimes is piss if you have the ability to recover on the massive jugs!!!

It certainly seems a sandbag at 8a, but must say i agree with The Sausage about grade creep....

 

[dobbin]

I think its hard for 8a. But then I havent done it so my point of view is based soley on having found plenty of short 8a's quite steady, and this is anything but steady.

Getting back to Ru's sequence, I know the pod he is on about, its far out right. I fettled at it, but dismissed it as the work of a mad man. Perhaps this is why I didnt get any further.

 

[dobbin]

Ted crushed this yesterday. I split a tip but we managed to bust a new sequence : from the undercut, put rf and drop knee to take gaston, left hand to two finger dish just up and right and then rh back to gaston in pod out right. lh to tooth by dogging bolt, rh pocket, lh sloper, build feet, lh edge, lh again to notch. Done. NIce one ted.

 

[Bonjoy]

8a or 8a+? I noticed Ted went for 8a on his scorecard. Is it really easier than Caviar? Maybe I should give it another go.

 

[dave]

8a? he didn't flash it though.

 

[dobbin]

Harder than HFC, but easier than Caviar (with new beta!). Given that it packs it in to the first 10ft its got to have some hard moves in it. Easier than PUTP. Horses for courses innit.

 

[uptowngirl]

I remember a couple of egyptians helped for me, and getting there early to beat the sun. It was 8a+ in the peak supplement from 1991, though hard 8a (font 7c) seems right for me. Theres a great picture of Ben on it in TPOC - I particularly like Seans NZ hairstyle of the day!