Fiend
Whut
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2004
- Messages
- 13,750
I don't even play fucking golf...
Okay here's the deal:
History:
No previous injuries of this nature. Mid-February I pulled hard on something down The Works and felt a shock go all the way up my inner left arm. Didn't feel sore, just like a twang. Massaged it and tentatively tried climbing on it - felt fine. Kept up with a normal climbing schedule but after a few weeks it started to hurt more, particularly after and sometimes during bouldering. I eased off on indoor climbing but still did outdoor stuff, albeit with more care. The injury persisted, but was most noticable on certain types of pulling hard moves - fairly steady climbing didn't affect it much. It was also noticable in some random non-climbing situations, including waking up with it feeling tweaked (sleeping on it funny?). I've given up on sport, bouldering, and indoors, and am sticking to relatively physically easy trad outdoors, as well as various recuperative treatments.
The injury:
The main site of pain is the small elipse above, exactly where the tendon from the forearm muscle meets the boney spur inside my elbow. This does not hurt at rest but is slightly painful to the touch at rest. It is slightly painful to clench my thumb and little finger together, less for thumb and 3rd finger. After easy trad climbing that area usually feels a bit more painful (noticable but not very painful) and the larger elipse sometimes has some mild pain in it. IF I've done something more intense climbing (which I avoid these days), OR random non-climbing stuff that hurts it, it will be more painful - not excruciating but sometimes enough to notice at rest - for about a day.
Current treatment:
I've been to see Ozzy a few times. He has massaged it brutally which tends to be sore afterwards but once that soreness fades the actually injury has felt better. He has been happier with the strength tests on pinching etc in the latest session.
The home treatments I am doing:
Iced water bath 2 x 30 minutes daily - this has seemed to help, it certainly feels better when I do this regularly.
Massage 2 x 10 minutes daily, focusing both on the specific site and the area around it, as hard as I can - this also seems to help, sometimes I can feel the pain easing during massage.
Massage 5-10 minutes before climbing.
2 x 20 press-ups not as often as I should.
Ibuprofen regularly when climbing.
Climbing:
Only going away on trad climbing trips, particularly where there's plenty of choice of mid-grade trad so I don't have to pull too hard.
Avoiding physically difficult climbing in favour of more adventurous climbing
Climbing at up to roughly 50% of my physical limit.
In between trips, resting elbow entirely apart from very light active rest and the above recuperative treatments.
Basically keeping doing some climbing, but much gentler stuff, spread out, with plenty of rest in between.
Thoughts?? Advice?? My general plan is trying to balance out giving my elbow a chance to heal with not completely wasting the summer with months of rest. Let's face it if I rest completely for two months now it's going to cunt it down in August and September isn't it...
Okay here's the deal:
History:
No previous injuries of this nature. Mid-February I pulled hard on something down The Works and felt a shock go all the way up my inner left arm. Didn't feel sore, just like a twang. Massaged it and tentatively tried climbing on it - felt fine. Kept up with a normal climbing schedule but after a few weeks it started to hurt more, particularly after and sometimes during bouldering. I eased off on indoor climbing but still did outdoor stuff, albeit with more care. The injury persisted, but was most noticable on certain types of pulling hard moves - fairly steady climbing didn't affect it much. It was also noticable in some random non-climbing situations, including waking up with it feeling tweaked (sleeping on it funny?). I've given up on sport, bouldering, and indoors, and am sticking to relatively physically easy trad outdoors, as well as various recuperative treatments.
The injury:
The main site of pain is the small elipse above, exactly where the tendon from the forearm muscle meets the boney spur inside my elbow. This does not hurt at rest but is slightly painful to the touch at rest. It is slightly painful to clench my thumb and little finger together, less for thumb and 3rd finger. After easy trad climbing that area usually feels a bit more painful (noticable but not very painful) and the larger elipse sometimes has some mild pain in it. IF I've done something more intense climbing (which I avoid these days), OR random non-climbing stuff that hurts it, it will be more painful - not excruciating but sometimes enough to notice at rest - for about a day.
Current treatment:
I've been to see Ozzy a few times. He has massaged it brutally which tends to be sore afterwards but once that soreness fades the actually injury has felt better. He has been happier with the strength tests on pinching etc in the latest session.
The home treatments I am doing:
Iced water bath 2 x 30 minutes daily - this has seemed to help, it certainly feels better when I do this regularly.
Massage 2 x 10 minutes daily, focusing both on the specific site and the area around it, as hard as I can - this also seems to help, sometimes I can feel the pain easing during massage.
Massage 5-10 minutes before climbing.
2 x 20 press-ups not as often as I should.
Ibuprofen regularly when climbing.
Climbing:
Only going away on trad climbing trips, particularly where there's plenty of choice of mid-grade trad so I don't have to pull too hard.
Avoiding physically difficult climbing in favour of more adventurous climbing
Climbing at up to roughly 50% of my physical limit.
In between trips, resting elbow entirely apart from very light active rest and the above recuperative treatments.
Basically keeping doing some climbing, but much gentler stuff, spread out, with plenty of rest in between.
Thoughts?? Advice?? My general plan is trying to balance out giving my elbow a chance to heal with not completely wasting the summer with months of rest. Let's face it if I rest completely for two months now it's going to cunt it down in August and September isn't it...
