Dreadnaught - Chee dale

[haydn jones]

Anyone got any beta on this(Alex?)? I cleaned up the headwall today and did it in a oner but it feels insanely hard and can't fathom climbing it from the ground. It just felt like I was climbing it wrong.

 

[abarro81]

Steve did a sequence that I thought felt very hard. Sharples has some old photos that show that sequence. IIRC it involved getting the little slot thing with RH and standing up into a bad LH undercut - I tried this for one session and decided it would be too hard for me at that time. Moon was trying it this way and I think we both thought it felt more like 8c+, but I might be misspeaking on Ben's thoughts there!

I used a sequence that Mawson told me him/Ryan/Dan V came up with (I think back in about 2010 when they tried it). You get LH in that slot/pocket thing, I think get a little rh crimp to sort feet, then do a long rockover to a sidepull up and right, a slightly blind foot swap, then snatch your left hand up a few things and maybe a crimpy rockover to finish. Not sure I can remember in much more detail without going back up there, but I think that should have you roughly covered and no doubt the details will vary anyway!

 

[haydn jones]

Ok that's sounds like what I was doing. I was snatching out to a 1 finger gaston for my left hand after the rock over then bumping again to a really good sidepull but was extremely spanned. Maybe you were getting something else instead of the 1 finger gaston. That rockover move to the high side pull is so good.

 

[abarro81]

Yeah, cool isn't it! I can't remember exactly what I bumped the LH to before the good hold I'm afraid, but I think it was more than 1 finger and in my memory it was more downwards or sidepully than a gaston but might have been quite slopey... but I might be misremembering!