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jwi

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The entire Parois de Légende is now available as a pdf from Bodet & Petit's website

https://vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com/books/

Arnaud Petit is writing on his facebook: (loosely translated)
A Christmas gift for those who are looking for the book Parois de légende... People are often asking me how to get hold of it – it is no longer available and there will not be a second print, we offer you access to the content in pdf on our web site. In hope of a calm and beautiful holiday season.
 
Shame there will be no revised version. AP was talking about doing one eighteen months ago with new content to replace the Saharan routes. I guess it’s a lot of work and perhaps they feel it’s time for someone else to take it on. There have been a couple of recent efforts along similar lines but both very Eurocentric and fell well short of what could be done.
 
A good thing about PdL is that, apart from impeccable route choices (in Europe and around the Mediterranean sea at least), the topos and pitch descriptions are spot on – usually better than the area guide book. I still hope for a future extended version. AP seems still keen to gather info about more multipitch crags around the world.
 
Do you take no second print to mean no future publication?

I was hassling him for an English version via social media less than 18 months ago and he said it was coming.

I was bought "Rock Around the World" for Christmas and despite not having scrutinised it the first flick got me totally psyched.
 
Did anyone download this, and if so, would you be able to let me have a copy (perhaps via weTransfer, if its a very big file)?

I saw the original post, but was abroad at the time without access to a big dataplan - so couldn't download it.

When I remembered about it today and went to Arnaud and Steph's website to download it, I just found a message saying the publisher has stopped them offering the download (though given that the original offer was made on Xmas day, lots of folk did probably download it before the publisher put a stop to the fun).

Thanks, Neil
 
Could I add my name to the list of people who missed the download offer and would like a copy?
 
Thanks for the replies, and particularly to sdm for making his download available to me this morning.

Looking forward to getting inspired....!

Neil
 
I have my copy somewhere in my apartment 6h away, and the said pdf on a network drive that I for some reason cannot access anymore. Does anyone still have a copy they could send? The pages with Dévoluy suffices.
 
sdm said:
Beat me to it. I've also pmed you a link (if pms are working?)
nic's pm is working, but not yours... very strange? but no sweat, I have the relevant pages!
 
Would be interested to hear how you find Devoluy jwi. We climbed at the sport crag on Le Gicon a few years ago and remember looking across at that huge main wall and thinking it'd looked ace.
 
petejh said:
Would be interested to hear how you find Devoluy jwi. We climbed at the sport crag on Le Gicon a few years ago and remember looking across at that huge main wall and thinking it'd looked ace.

I've done 4 routes (Lucifer, Dernière, Paix, and the short one) on the west facing main wall and 1 on the north facing wall (Balade). The quality of the climbing and rock isn't exceptional, but I like setting, the accessibility and the fact that a wall this big is located next to the road. And the climbing with the horizontal silica bands is special for sure, and quite pumpy as well.

I hope to be back for more (either Elsa, lMdlM, or Miroir Tectonique) next week. The route we did on the north face was the most adventurous (before the rebolting) of the lot, but the quality of the rock was mostly average. The traversing 14th length of Dernière I'll always remember. Brilliant exposure and at 7a a bit too hard to cruise comfortably for me at the time. Sweet memories of a breaking hold and resulting big lob into the void below ;D.

Bruno Beatrix went back in 2015, 2016 and 2018 and put up three new routes on the west facing wall Patate d'espace, Humeurs Vagabondes and MT. lMdlM by another team on the north face is new as well:

https://sud-ascension.com/nouvelle-escalade-a-la-grande-roche-gillardes-devoluy/
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/1211350/fr/les-gillardes-petite-roche-miroir-tectonique
 
petejh said:
Would be interested to hear how you find Devoluy jwi. We climbed at the sport crag on Le Gicon a few years ago and remember looking across at that huge main wall and thinking it'd looked ace.

Me and my better half did this today: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54706/fr/les-gillardes-petite-roche-sous-la-griffe-de-lucifer
Apart from the first pitch, the rock was excellent all the way. Most pitches vertical. Pitch 4 to pitch 11 were all very good. Quite far between the bolts: "either be strong or be zen" as we were told. I am way more tired now than I thought I'd be.
 

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