Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
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T_B
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- May 12, 2008
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Tried it a couple of weeks ago with Dave Parry who is not weak on crimps (neither of us did the crux). It’s actually quite a nice hold, just 3 fingers kinda like a match box. The move off it out right is off balance and hard - slapping the hold is one thing, getting it in control is another. I would guess the route is Font 7c, minimum 7b+. Using my sequence it’s 6 or 7 moves to the end of the difficulties. Apparently there’s a different sequence that doesn’t use the obvious matchbox crimp.
Pretty sure I used the crimp. Don't recall it being hard at the grade when I did it (ages ago). Deffo one of those where if you find the crux okay you will cruise the route as there's not much climbing either side of it and it's all significantly easier moves. The photos of Welford on it in TPOC should give you some idea what to expect.
A cool and iconic book... so long as you stick to just looking at the pictures.
SamT
Well-Known Member
I'm always slightly taken aback when I realise there are young climbers out there who don't even know about TPOC...
Bonjoy said:
Weird how it is viewed that way now as it was hammered on publication (although, given climbing media at the time consisted of three mags, it was possible for one or two voices to ‘represent’ the entire climbing diaspora)
SamT
Well-Known Member
I don't remember it being slammed particularly, but then I didn't do much reading.. I'm more of a pictures kind of person anyhow, so the book was just a source of massive psych to get ripped and climb harder.
Its all a little sycophantic I guess. Anyway, off topic.
I've always found DB to be nails. Did Tribe, but couldn't touch DB.
Its all a little sycophantic I guess. Anyway, off topic.
I've always found DB to be nails. Did Tribe, but couldn't touch DB.
SamT
Well-Known Member
:lol:
Wonder if that's why I could never get anywhere near...
I suspect John could have chosen any sequence he liked.
Wonder if that's why I could never get anywhere near...
I suspect John could have chosen any sequence he liked.
SamT
Well-Known Member
Also see - https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20978.msg380896.html#msg380896
Fultonius
Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
cheque said:Bonjoy said:
It’s a mad book. I’m going to cover it in my mad old climbing book reviews series on the demon Instagram at some point.
Here’s the picture anyway-
I remember meeting John in about 2003/4 just after I'd got into climbing. I was in Morzine over xmas with some mates from Uni and we stayed in a big hostel/dorm type place. He had some nasty flu type thing and we barely saw him all week.
Fond memories of getting to know the sister of the hostel manager quite well :wub: and an awkward drive to the airport stuck between the brother, and her dad....
Bonjoy said:
"The Power of Climbing is enormous, it justifies my entire existence"
I lapped it up when I bought it on a trip to the UK (still got £19.95 YHA price tag on the back). Some of the interviews are a bit patchy, but there's some good stuff in there too. Remember this was pre VP era, there were mags about, not a lot of rock climbing literature though.
I spotted that look in the book after making the remark. Hoped I'd get away with it...T_B said:Which isn’t the sequence
