Dangerous Brothers beta

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dpb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
Messages
144
I had a go at this today but failed miserably.

My sequence went RH on the flake, LH up to good slot/pocket, RF on good hold and rock up to get left hand of 2 undercuts (the better) with RH, high feet and underut to get high tiny crimp with LH, RF in pocket below RH, try to pull eyeing up good RH edge a way off and fall onto the rope.

Am I setting about this right? There were some side pulls further right, Should I be using these in some way?

All help appreciated.

Cheers

Dave
 
Using the side pulls is the "other" way.
Instead of pulling up on the left hand crimp try doing it a bit more dynamically to get the edge. I don't mean a dyno, sort of an 80% dead point if you see what I mean ?
 
Thanks, shall give it a go. Are you using any intermediates for your rh our going straight from undercut to the good edge?
 
dpb said:
Thanks, shall give it a go. Are you using any intermediates for your rh our going straight from undercut to the good edge?
Sorry cant remember.
 
abarro81 said:
Was it dry out there despite the fog of doom then?

Rubicon area was wet, kudos a bit damp, dangerous brothers fine a were routes in the salar area. Didn't look up at caviar though
 
I did it dynamically off the LH crimp, RH was on something good lower down, RF was on one of the obvious bits below and the key bit for me was moving my LF onto a dirty smear out left which allowed me to push across.
I also couldnt work out how to get across to the right side flakes - looked like a big span for me.
Good luck - its a nice bouldery route.
 
Cheers

I wasn't doing anything with my left for so I'llhave a go at finding something for it
 
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