Castleton not in new Rockfax Peak Bouldering guide?

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stone

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Jan 31, 2010
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I was surprised that Castleton wasn't in the new 2023 Rockfax Peak Bouldering guide. I've really liked that guide for places it covers that I've visited. Is it obvious why Castleton was left out?
 
Any particular venues you had in mind? I assume it'll be a combination of relatively small venues and slightly dodgy access.
 
I just saw that there seemed quite a lot of bouldering there on UKC logbooks. Using that I was able to find Sheep Shifter and RamRod at CaveDale. There are also the Arches and Odin's cave. I guess it's fine working out where things are in that manner, but its easier with a guide book..

I was just curious if it was a conscious effort to discourage people from going or what and if that means a very low profile needs to be made when visiting or something. The guide includes a lot of other small venues (eg Made in Sheffield is on its own isn't it? -I've not been).

I sort of thought Castleton was worthy in that its got problems that can be climbed when many other places aren't in great condition, is easy to get to for many people etc.
 
General access situation for Castleton venues:
- Cavedale - No problems. Hole Dancer cave is physically difficult to access and may well be trespassing, but is rarely visited and well out of sight
- Odin's Cave - No problems. On CRoW land. The traverse in the rift is in an area which is barriered off due to a rockfall, so technically out of bounds. However the rockfall was actually much further up the rift.
- The Arch - No problems.
- Opencast Arch - Low key access okay. Sensitive due to mineral theft.
- Windy Knoll Cave - Fenced off due to past rockfall (2005). Questionable geological stability. The sort of 'at your own risk' venue that is maybe best kept out of a print guide.
- Dirtlow Rake - Banned. The farmer/owner has been approached before and is against climbing at the crag. Once at the crag boulderers are out of sight. I haven't heard of a boulderer getting seen and asked to leave. Again, not really suitable for a print guide.

I think the premise of the guide is that it's semi selective with some micro/new/sensitive venues being documented on the Rockfax app. There is certainly a good case for the Castleton area being of of these.
 
The barrier that was in front of By Odin has now been removed.

I would have thought that it would be wise to only visit Hole Dancer when the show cave is closed, due to its location.
 

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