British men who have climbed >= E9 and british women who have climbed >= E7

[Doylo]

Dan Honeyman with me the very scared belayer.

 

[remus]

Dan Honeyman with me the very scared belayer.

Good knowledge, thanks! Not surprised you were scared, Knockin' is pretty close to the bottom of my 'routes Id want to belay someone on' list.

 

[Doylo]

And Dan near the bottom of ‘persons I’d want to belay ‘ list. Well back then anyway. He gave me an elbow to the temple falling off Unfamiliar and I could only eat soup for a week.

 

[nik at work]

:lol:

Belaying Dan stories are amazing.

First time I met Dan was bouldering at the Foundry. The next day he suggested we go climbing outside (I was a very green, led a couple is VS’s, climber). He had me belay him on Kaluza Klein...
“If I fall off just jump off this ledge”

Errrr ok....

He then proceeded to fall of the top, repeatedly...

 

[Johnny Brown]

Can see why he and Tom hit it off! Sketch-fest!

 

[X]

IIRC Sean gave it straight 8a and got sufficient stick that he wrote an article to explain his reasoning. Basically, he said it's a redpoint.

The CC have done it with their Pembroke guide, giving all routes of E56 and above an accompanying sport grade in their select guide only for only those route where it is known ... The CC Pembroke guidebook authors (Emma and Paul) have a huge advantage in worked really hard doing it for Pembroke by speaking with lots of locals and visitors alike and making a real effort ... Some of the popular hard routes [in Pembroke] get almost as much more traffic than anywhere else as the populous climbing areas of the Peak and Yorkshire. Bar a few notable exceptions, most routes in Yorkshire of, say, E5 and above see only a few disparate repeats. I imagine many are unrepeated. The popular hard routes in Peak/Yorkshire have loads of ascents much like the popular routes in Pembroke. There are unpopular routes in all areas...

Fixed some of your whinging for you Will

 

[Doylo]

His upper body was quite stacked so the elbow really had some force behind it. Seem to remember belaying him lobbing off some E6 at Stanage too with me belaying but can’t remember the route.

 

[SA Chris]

Another blow to the head, or old age?

 

[Fiend]

Can't find it on his channel, but Irish Si's commentary after Dan sketches up Kaluza Klein (possibly with Nik belaying) is great....

"It's.....it's fucking raining...."

"You're a fucking tool."

"I'm not climbing with you again!"

 

[nik at work]

That was probably a couple of years later so not me belay h, but agree that the commentary is brilliant :lol:

 

[Doylo]

The drives to the crag were even more necky...

 

[petejh]

IIRC Sean gave it straight 8a and got sufficient stick that he wrote an article to explain his reasoning. Basically, he said it's a redpoint.

The CC have done it with their Pembroke guide, giving all routes of E56 and above an accompanying sport grade in their select guide only for only those route where it is known ... The CC Pembroke guidebook authors (Emma and Paul) have a huge advantage in worked really hard doing it for Pembroke by speaking with lots of locals and visitors alike and making a real effort ... Some of the popular hard routes [in Pembroke] get almost as much more traffic than anywhere else as the populous climbing areas of the Peak and Yorkshire. Bar a few notable exceptions, most routes in Yorkshire of, say, E5 and above see only a few disparate repeats. I imagine many are unrepeated. The popular hard routes in Peak/Yorkshire have loads of ascents much like the popular routes in Pembroke. There are unpopular routes in all areas...

Fixed some of your whinging for you Will

:lol:

Will downgrading Pembroke now.

 

[remus]

IIRC Sean gave it straight 8a and got sufficient stick that he wrote an article to explain his reasoning. Basically, he said it's a redpoint.

The CC have done it with their Pembroke guide, giving all routes of E56 and above an accompanying sport grade in their select guide only for only those route where it is known ... The CC Pembroke guidebook authors (Emma and Paul) have a huge advantage in worked really hard doing it for Pembroke by speaking with lots of locals and visitors alike and making a real effort ... Some of the popular hard routes [in Pembroke] get almost as much more traffic than anywhere else as the populous climbing areas of the Peak and Yorkshire. Bar a few notable exceptions, most routes in Yorkshire of, say, E5 and above see only a few disparate repeats. I imagine many are unrepeated. The popular hard routes in Peak/Yorkshire have loads of ascents much like the popular routes in Pembroke. There are unpopular routes in all areas...

Fixed some of your whinging for you Will

:lol:

Will downgrading Pembroke now.

New years resolution 2022: downgrade France.

 

[andy moles]

Bit sad putting forward my girlfriend (again), but Ferdia has climbed E7s: Skye Wall, Free Stonehenge (with gear in), Power of the Darkside (as a highball), an 8+ in Sweden which I guess would be E7, maybe others.

Michelle McLoughlin does the FA of an E7 in that Owey film [edit - it's called Temple of Boom], and I think she's done others - Thing in the Forest maybe?

 

[Alex-the-Alex]

Sad because you are a supportive bf? Or sad because she's a dark horse operator under the radarand hasn't been mentioned? Because both of those are pretty cool nowadays. You may need to recalibrate your coolometer Andy Moles.

 

[SA Chris]

He's cool like dat, cool like dat

 

[andy moles]

Sad because you are a supportive bf? Or sad because she's a dark horse operator under the radarand hasn't been mentioned? Because both of those are pretty cool nowadays. You may need to recalibrate your coolometer Andy Moles.

Sad was the wrong word maybe, more that slight cringe of blowing someone else's trumpet when they wouldn't, y'know?

But while I'm at it, another woman who's climbed E7s is Harriet Ridley - Katie's Delight and Manhattan Highrise, possibly others.

 

[andi_e]

Holy shit, I'd lost touch with Harriet after I moved away from Durham and canned my FB/insta account. Bon effort!

 

[moose]

And Dan near the bottom of ‘persons I’d want to belay ‘ list. Well back then anyway. He gave me an elbow to the temple falling off Unfamiliar and I could only eat soup for a week.

I had similar (but very probably less visceral) feelings when belaying Jacob Cook. He could make belaying a safe sport climb feel like complicity with a "suicide by chop route". If he got tired, he'd skip bolts, just keep trucking, and routinely approach the belay with nothing clipped above half-way. In return for picking him up and ferrying him to the crag, I always just wanted a day of tedious belays in return for his support working my own project, instead I'd spend half the day stressed and mentally rehearsing scenarios of alerting the air ambulance and giving bad news to parents!

 

[remus]

Thanks Andy, good knowledge. I spotted on Harriet's insta feed that she did Mussel Beach this year so she's a new addition for the sport list too.