British men who have climbed >= E9 and british women who have climbed >= E7

remus · Jan 3, 2021

New year, new lists.

I've filled in a few off the top of my head but who have I missed out? Im sure there's loads I haven't thought of, especially for the women.

British men who have climbed >= E9: https://climbing-history.org/list/6
British women who have climbed >= E7: https://climbing-history.org/list/7

remus · Jan 3, 2021

Bonus grade controversy: is Meshuga actually E8 because it gets done (relatively) often? We're just trying to get through to our correspondent ~~on the ground~~ who's never been to the crag Will Hunt for an imminent downgrade.

Ged · Jan 3, 2021

Yeah ditch meshuga. Multiple ascents like that look too suspicious.

Ali Kennedy, walk of life, somethings burning, plus loads more.

Alexis Perry, exclamation Mark, plus possibly more esoteric stuff in Cornwall.

gme · Jan 3, 2021

Gresh did E10 this year.
Neil Mawson done one as well.
James Pearson has done rhapsody
Neil Bentley equilibrium
Nic sellers Parthian pre break ( must be loads more for that)

Who’s the lad who repeated all Dave’s things up at scarfell.

Loads more.

Muenchener · Jan 3, 2021

Calum Muskett, Indian Face?

Will Hunt · Jan 3, 2021

Franco for various things. The NMC have Nothing Lasts pegged at E11.

lurcher · Jan 3, 2021

gme said:
Gresh did E10 this year.
Neil Mawson done one as well.
James Pearson has done rhapsody
Neil Bentley equilibrium
Nic sellers Parthian pre break ( must be loads more for that)

Who’s the lad who repeated all Dave’s things up at scarfell.

Loads more.

Craig Matheson?

Camo · Jan 3, 2021

Karin Magog for the women’s I would think. Sure she has climbed a few E7s. Charlottes dream direct at Bowden is one from memory but worth double checking I’m not wrong.

Will Hunt · Jan 3, 2021

Will Hunt said:
Franco for various things. The NMC have Nothing Lasts pegged at E11.

How stupid of me. I forgot that Franco isn't from Sheffield. Ignore me.

Andy F · Jan 3, 2021

Will Hunt said:
Franco for various things. The NMC have Nothing Lasts pegged at E11.

Why not include Si O'Connor's routes then?

remus · Jan 3, 2021

Ged, gme, Muenchener: thanks for those, added them all in.

Lurcher: good shout, I've added Craig in for the Birkett stuff he's repeated.

Camo: I had a little search on UKC for stuff Karin has done and turns out she's done Bleed in Hell. Waddage!

Anyone who's more familiar with Franco's stuff than me care to take a guess at what his hardest line is likely to be?

Duncan campbell · Jan 3, 2021

Nathan has done tonnes; unknown stones, knockin’ , the zone, AwD, rare lichen, sure there will be others.

danm · Jan 3, 2021

Didn't George Ullrich also do Indian Face? It's had a suspicious number of ascents so must only be E8, right? Or maybe, it's iconic and has had large numbers of folk psyched to do it? Hmm, just like Meshuga...

Nathan has done an E9 at Wimberry, Unknown Stones or something?

Nige and Bob have both done Meshuga, Nige has done the direct finish to MaDMAn, which could be E8 or E9 I think?

Sam, Appointment with Death E9.

Must be heaps more.

Will Hunt · Jan 3, 2021

Tom Randall gave MYXOMOP the all-important Lattice seal of approval.

Amazing effort from Franco Cookson. One of the best lines I've tried and some very beefy climbing on it.... I spent a few sessions on it and was absolutely sure of it being around E9 7a or you could bracket it in that "highball but really don't fall off at the top!" category. If I'd done this, I would rank it in the top 5 things I'd have ever done on grit/sandstone.

Which begs the question of what you intend to do about highballs.

Dan Varian has had a rope on Nothing Lasts. If I remember rightly the controversy was about resin on the holds, not the grade.

Mark Rankine repeated Divine Moments and suggested E9. Though I'm not sure if Mark has a Lattice training plan and not sure if he climbs at Raven Tor much. He is probably an unperson whose opinion should be erased from existence.

Shit! I keep forgetting that these routes aren't the targets of fragile-ego'd Peak botherers. Strike them from the record, please.

moose · Jan 3, 2021

gme said:
Gresh did E10 this year.

Didn't he get the 2nd ascent of Equilibrium?

Andy F · Jan 3, 2021

One confirmed E9 doesn't confirm an E11
I know of at least 2 routes which have been downgraded by people who actually bothered to climb on other rock types and routes.

remus · Jan 3, 2021

Just to clarify, I'm trying to keep the list focused on people who have done E9/E7 or harder, not listing out every single ascent. A couple of ascents per person is enough for my liking (preferably on stuff that's established at the grade).

danm said:
Didn't George Ullrich also do Indian Face? It's had a suspicious number of ascents so must only be E8, right? Or maybe, it's iconic and has had large numbers of folk psyched to do it? Hmm, just like Meshuga...

Good shout, he's in.

Nathan has done an E9 at Wimberry, Unknown Stones or something?

I've added a few more in for Nathan, won't bother with any more though as not interested in repeating his UKC logbook.

Nige and Bob have both done Meshuga, Nige has done the direct finish to MaDMAn, which could be E8 or E9 I think?

Sam, Appointment with Death E9.

Good shout, they're all on the list.

moose said:
gme said:

Gresh did E10 this year.

Click to expand...

Didn't he get the 2nd ascent of Equilibrium?

Good shout, I've added him to the list for Equilibrium and Final Score (his E10 that he did this year.)

Men: https://climbing-history.org/list/6
Women: https://climbing-history.org/list/7

Any more knowledge for the women?

Hockstack · Jan 3, 2021

I’ve done two. ‘Return of the King’ and ‘Blood eagle’

remus · Jan 3, 2021

Open to suggestions on what to do with highballs. Andy Earl is one who springs to mind here, stuff like The Prow and The Dark Side seems pretty full value without pads, but then these are typically done with pads nowadays.

The other tricky area is stuff abroad that doesn't have an E grade. Magic Line for example, or Prinzip Hoffnung. I've kinda just guessed at a grade so far. Suggestions welcome.

andy popp · Jan 3, 2021

remus said:
Just to clarify, I'm trying to keep the list focused on people who have done E9/E7 or harder, not listing out every single ascent. A couple of ascents per person is enough for my liking (preferably on stuff that's established at the grade).

Fair enough, but Nick Dixon deserves more than one route next to his name.

Before opening the list I was wondering if E7 was too low a threshold for women and was very surprised to see only seven names. Surely there have to be more (though I've been away from things too long to have any suggestions)?

Possibly unpopular opinion; is Unfamiliar E7 with pads?

British men who have climbed >= E9 and british women who have climbed >= E7

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