Bring out your dabs

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Wasn't all spotting like this in the 90s? Swear there are vids of Moon being spotted similarly. Was it the growth of pads that created the "dabbing/touching the climber is cheating and invalidates the ascent" zeitgeist?
 
I'm with Teaboy. Anything other than already having your hands on or within a t-shirt's-sag is going to be useless for spotting that.

Jake and Amy are pretty handy and know the rules. They made two of the most entertaining bouldering films on YouTube. Each still somehow at <1k views.

https://youtu.be/ZIqopZfbF1A?si=AkhywBmDjjGXR8fh

https://youtu.be/9gl9uyzr0Hg?si=dl_od-PGsG9ihuSH
 
spidermonkey09 said:
Wasn't all spotting like this in the 90s? Swear there are vids of Moon being spotted similarly. Was it the growth of pads that created the "dabbing/touching the climber is cheating and invalidates the ascent" zeitgeist?

instantly made me think of this old clip, which I have lodged in my memory purely because of the spotting (well, and maybe Katzy's hair). The wonderwall spotting later on is much the same.

https://youtu.be/anlpM-8Ggbw?si=Y57JK93h_Kyq097Y&t=58
 
spidermonkey09 said:
Wasn't all spotting like this in the 90s? Swear there are vids of Moon being spotted similarly.

It’s like when VAR started ordering penalties to be retaken because the keeper was off their line and you look back the most important penalty saves in history and realise that most of them shouldn’t have counted either.

Will Hunt said:
Jake and Amy are pretty handy and know the rules.

https://youtu.be/ZIqopZfbF1A?si=AkhywBmDjjGXR8fh

They don’t the know what “feature length” means though ;)
 
The most egregious bit is before the foot lock.. anyone who thinks that's legit is hepped up on goofballs. A tiny amount of pressure can make a surprising amount of difference on some moves. I remember trying a boulder in the gramps where I could do the crux semi consistently with a finger gently on my back but maybe 1 in 20 without.
 
Will Hunt said:
I'm with Teaboy. Anything other than already having your hands on or within a t-shirt's-sag is going to be useless for spotting that.

Jake and Amy are pretty handy and know the rules. They made two of the most entertaining bouldering films on YouTube. Each still somehow at <1k views.

https://youtu.be/ZIqopZfbF1A?si=AkhywBmDjjGXR8fh

https://youtu.be/9gl9uyzr0Hg?si=dl_od-PGsG9ihuSH

Is the tree in? 26:52 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIqopZfbF1A
 
Will Hunt said:
I'm with Teaboy. Anything other than already having your hands on or within a t-shirt's-sag is going to be useless for spotting that.

Jake and Amy are pretty handy and know the rules. They made two of the most entertaining bouldering films on YouTube. Each still somehow at <1k views.

https://youtu.be/ZIqopZfbF1A?si=AkhywBmDjjGXR8fh

https://youtu.be/9gl9uyzr0Hg?si=dl_od-PGsG9ihuSH
I know I’m bit outside youth culture these days but how does someone running round the woods in a rapists mask add to a climbing film.
 
I really can’t see an issue here. She is in a roof and her partner is ensuring she doesn’t take a hideous back splat. Personally I would be happy with anyone spotting me like that on that kind problem.

Dave
 
Having done the boulder without such a close spot, but having received a similar dabby spot whilst working the moves out, for me there was a difference in the difficulty of the moves to be honest, it was much easier to keep the hips in etc.

Whether spotting like this is acceptable though I think is more down to personal preference and ethics, and as long as this lady is happy with her ascent I don't really see a problem.
 
It's a hard call, on one hand should she be ritually humiliated online by a gang of SJW's, or on the other, quietly taken off to the Gulag for her crimes?
 

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