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Live reporting from the Subby 40. Wall is open. Signs up about hand-washing before and after - very sensible, I obeyed.

Am wearing a Cattle Decapitation vest but listening to old skool drum'n'bass.

Flashed Blurgh 6C on both sides. Now working Snort 6B for the 3rd session.

Have got newly resoled shoes with a stiff edge. Feels like cheating a bit.

Edit: given up on Snort. Can't do the move in isolation. Onto Dark Wood 6B for the 2nd session.

Edit 2: still can't do the one move 6C crux of Dark Wood 6B. Especially not after 6B+/C up until there. A bit closer tho.
 
Their grades are all over the show. I did a 7A on Friday which was about 6A+. Conversely, I previously failed on a 6B there which was about 7B+.
 
Hi guys, bit of an extension to this topic.
I've just built my first woodie and been climbing on it for a couple of weeks. It's 45 degrees, just under 3 panels long with a mixture of HWH and Crusher holds. Some of the feet are ok and some are the wooden domes. It's mostly very core and shoulder intensive, at least for me.

In the past when going through periods of home training I've always combined fingerboarding with TRX work and some other core stuff. Now though, I've stopped doing any TRX or core work because I don't want either shoulders or core to be tired before climbing on the board. However I'm not sure if there are aspects of those I should keep training alongside board climbing. Does anyone have an opinion on this?
 
Do core and shoulder stuff on non board days. A steep board with shit footholds will work both...

I’m doing some shoulder exercises (rather than work out) to keep them mobile every day. Some light dumbbell work and face pulls.
 
Haha moose I had this image of Tomtom's lockdown training

440px-Edvard_Munch%2C_1893%2C_The_Scream%2C_oil%2C_tempera_and_pastel_on_cardboard%2C_91_x_73_cm%2C_National_Gallery_of_Norway.jpg
 
Face pulls. Apologies for the ‘fuck yeah’ gym style YouTube explainer at the end... they are a tip from Nai. Very good for the rotator cuff I’m told.

I use a theraband around a bannister - and 20-30 of these after a session seems to balance up the shoulders - and has stopped any aches between the shoulder blades. N=1 etc...

https://youtu.be/MiRAi2KOfRQ
 
More on Face Pulls:

https://youtu.be/eIq5CB9JfKE?t=374

Also doing these after board/hang sessions at the moment:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B_EIZCFlGxv/
 
Sidehaas said:
Hi guys, bit of an extension to this topic.
I've just built my first woodie and been climbing on it for a couple of weeks. It's 45 degrees, just under 3 panels long with a mixture of HWH and Crusher holds. Some of the feet are ok and some are the wooden domes. It's mostly very core and shoulder intensive, at least for me.

In the past when going through periods of home training I've always combined fingerboarding with TRX work and some other core stuff. Now though, I've stopped doing any TRX or core work because I don't want either shoulders or core to be tired before climbing on the board. However I'm not sure if there are aspects of those I should keep training alongside board climbing. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

Board first, TRX after.
 
205Chris said:
Sidehaas said:
Hi guys, bit of an extension to this topic.
I've just built my first woodie and been climbing on it for a couple of weeks. It's 45 degrees, just under 3 panels long with a mixture of HWH and Crusher holds. Some of the feet are ok and some are the wooden domes. It's mostly very core and shoulder intensive, at least for me.

In the past when going through periods of home training I've always combined fingerboarding with TRX work and some other core stuff. Now though, I've stopped doing any TRX or core work because I don't want either shoulders or core to be tired before climbing on the board. However I'm not sure if there are aspects of those I should keep training alongside board climbing. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

Board first, TRX after.

What TRX stuff do you do after a board session Chris? What I'm not really sure is what types of exercise on TRX are essentially replaced by the training my shoulders/core get on a board, and what I need to keep up alongside it.
 
[/quote]

What TRX stuff do you do after a board session Chris?
[/quote]

To add my +1. I also do Board then TRX / Shoulder stuff.

Just basic stuff like IYTs and external rotation with a theraband.

Rationale is, for me, board climbing tends to tire the major muscle groups and is internal rotn dominant whereas IYTs / ext rotn is to specifically target the rotator cuff muscles to aim to get a bit more shoulder stability.
 
Thanks TomTom and Nai too. That's reminded me of at least one more exercise I used to do a few years ago when I had an impingement problem that I had forgotten about.
Face pulls look similar ish to reverse flies on the trx but with elbows bent. Might give them a go.
 
Sidehaas said:
Thanks TomTom and Nai too. That's reminded me of at least one more exercise I used to do a few years ago when I had an impingement problem that I had forgotten about.
Face pulls look similar ish to reverse flies on the trx but with elbows bent. Might give them a go.

I don’t know what a reverse fly is - but as Nai explained it to me the main bit of the face pulls that does good stuff is the rotating the arm backwards (with elbows horizontal) towards the end of the pull. Pls correct me if wrong...
 

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