Big News

[JamieG]

remus announced:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jBavqTama8&t=1932s

Haha beat me too it. What happened higher up? Did a hold break or something? He threw something to the ground I think.

 

[JamieG]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Haha beat me too it. What happened higher up? Did a hold break or something? He threw something to the ground I think.

To answer my own question. He said a jug broke higher up and he almost fell off. :lol: That would have been totally devastating.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

If you watch the stream back you can see the hold break. It looks like it jams in place long enough for him to grab something with the other hand and then he chucks it off. Bit of luck!

 

[jakaitch]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Think we should also take a moment to appreciate how odd it is that a FA of one of the hardest routes in the world was live streamed... Wasnt on my 2023 bingo card

 

[jakaitch]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Also, he looked so cruisy through (what I assume to be) the crux compared to previous attempts!

 

[Duncan campbell]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!

Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!

 

[JamieG]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

If you watch the stream back you can see the hold break. It looks like it jams in place long enough for him to grab something with the other hand and then he chucks it off. Bit of luck!

Around 28:15 in live stream. So lucky!

 

[Bradders]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

If you watch the stream back you can see the hold break. It looks like it jams in place long enough for him to grab something with the other hand and then he chucks it off. Bit of luck!

Around 28:15 in live stream. So lucky!

Looks like it was basically the edge of a jug rather than the whole thing, hence why he stayed on. Very lucky.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

He doesn't put his hand back in the same place which is interesting; definitely uses a slightly lower hold instead of where the bit came off.

 

[T_B]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.

 

[Sasquatch]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!

Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!

He did say it was his longest project to date and took 2 months over 2 years...

 

[Will Hunt]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

The live stream makes Ondras media team look Neolithic. Two or three camera angles including abseil and drone and presumably somebody somewhere watching the feed saying "camera 2 in 3, 2, 1, camera 2". Impressive.

 

[IanP]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.

"From this pretty good hold, it should be over; still 15 or 20 metres of climbing but only around F8a."

Those E6s at Pabby sound tough

 

[IanP]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!

Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!

He did say it was his longest project to date and took 2 months over 2 years...

And working it alongside Ondra (and Bouin) for quite a lot of the time which must help in term of working out and refining the best beta.

 

[Duncan campbell]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!

Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!

He did say it was his longest project to date and took 2 months over 2 years...

Ha I see! I’ve not watched the successful ascent and was mainly going off the videos from last year, but obviously have got the wrong impression… though would be interested to know how many sessions he has had on the route…

 

[thunderbeest]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.

I think most routes in Flatanger could be climbed on trad. But I wouldn't wanna project a 80m overhanging trad route, sounds like a pain to clean after each attempt.

 

[Fiend]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Jakob has just done the fa of Project Big in flatanger. 9b+ or 9c.

https://www.youtube.com/live/1jBavqTama8?si=sk6aoCC_Ci5tGjy_

Well that was jolly good fun! Fair play to him, great effort doing it, and presenting it to us audience in such a direct way. Good report at the end including the hold break too.

 

[lukeyboy]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

This is the ultimate in terms of confirmation of a route being climbed - gone are the days of trying to find out who his belayer/spotter was

(just to be clear, not raising any doubts about JS etc)

 

[jwi]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.

 

[remus]

Re: Re: Significant First Ascents

Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.

Flatanger 7b perhaps?