Thanks! Um, onsighting has really never been my strong point. I think I'm pretty good at faffing around and getting weird beta to work well for me, but that means I tend to rely a lot more on unlikely rests and tricks than actually being fit, which is a lot less useful for onsighting. I onsighted some 7c+s in 2020, then decided I needed to get stronger to be able to redpoint the routes I aspired to do and just focused on bouldering for a year. Then for a couple of years I kept getting sick just before trips with covid or flu, and/or getting really fit by trad climbing then injuring my fingers. I also had quite a few close calls over that time but my head game wasn't good enough, and once you've punted a few times on easy post-crux ground it becomes even more of a mental challenge!Nice! I was so tired by the time I arrived at the second anchor that I couldn't contemplate continuing. But also amazed that you haven't onsighted 8a before? Must be lack of interest?
(I forgot my best redpoints/slightly lesser known Greek crag recommendations:
Herouvim 8a at Lagada, possibly the best quality tufa cave I've ever been to for 8a-8b. A Kostas Roussos route, so will never be upgraded despite being totally savage, but so worth the effort. Flows like the platonic ideal of a long dreamy tufa endurance route. Took me quite a lot of goes to beta it down to anywhere near the given grade. Good to know about this crag if you're in Leonidio and it's too hot, but apparently it's best to leave your car unlocked with nothing in it to avoid getting the windows broken.
A Muerte 8a, Agiofarago, Cretan sport climbing is so weird. If all crags were bunched together it would be one of the best destinations in Europe but they're miles apart and all annoying to get to for various reasons. This one has a savage dirt road that you either need a 4x4 or a car you don't care about. Style wise, A Muerte would kind of fit in in Siurana, where I think it'd be the most sought after 8a there - and possibly one of the hardest!). First redpoint but nearly exploded in the process. Ashimopapo, the 7b to the left is possibly the best of the grade I've ever done and would be the best tufa-jug haul of that grade in Leonidio or Kalymnos IMO. Also a banging line!