Battery's Shoulder Recovery

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Fiend said:
you do get the occasional 40 something bonehead in a rather well-fitting vest punting off their reds.
Can't believe this isn't on the front page of their website. Combined with

battery said:
it's a great wall where you don't get practically elbowed out of the way by some 20 year old muscle-fest in a baggy vest as he proceeds to try and demonstrate to his mate who he's dragged along how to climb a problem which he dogs.

you're doing their PR department's work for them!
 
edshakey said:
Fiend said:
you do get the occasional 40 something bonehead in a rather well-fitting vest punting off their reds.
Can't believe this isn't on the front page of their website. Combined with

battery said:
it's a great wall where you don't get practically elbowed out of the way by some 20 year old muscle-fest in a baggy vest as he proceeds to try and demonstrate to his mate who he's dragged along how to climb a problem which he dogs.

you're doing their PR department's work for them!
Or they could just say “ Middle aged knackered climbers with bad dress sense don’t worry this is the wall for you”
 
Physio session a couple of weeks ago was highly amusing and very successful - I mentioned that I couldn't hang without taking a bit of weight through my feet. She spent some time doing some very weird stuff to mobilise my spine (which apparently didn't move in any direction), hammering certain muscles and getting me to attempt to hang from the only place in the NHS medical centre treatment room that we could find to vaguely be able to hang off - the door frame! The result was incredible followed by me hammering the finger board and ending up in pain again, backed off and it sorted itself out.

Back at the physio yesterday. I described the latest set of annoyances, aches and pains and after telling me off for trying to do too much too soon and looking at my movement she said everything I was saying is what she would expect, it's all good, my knackered shoulder actually moves better than the other one and it is just going to take time. I was discharged.

I was a bit taken aback, I really value having that support and reassurance there and I don't want to be discharged until my shoulder is completely back to normal (or new normal!). But it is just a case of time now, keep doing what I'm doing, keep building it up and listening to my body. I know I should be pleased at the milestone but I actually just felt a bit at sea initially. Husband reminded me that we can always pay for me to see a physio if needed which cheered me up along with the realisation that I don't have to try and fit physio appointments into my schedule any more.

Climbed last night a did pretty well. Getting more confidence in it. Moves that I initially back off from because of my shoulder I am making myself do again and try to work out if it is genuinely my shoulder that is saying no or my head - most of the time it is head so progress is good on that one. What I have realised is that I am incredibly nervous of any foothold that is even vaguely slopey.... not surprising as that was the cause of the accident but tough to work on without just having a bit of a miserable time forcing myself to do things that scare the shit out of me.
 
Part of the role of a physio is to empower people to manage their own recovery. Sounds like your physio has done a great job and has faith in you to self-manage the remainder of your recovery. Good luck!
 
Been a good while since I posted.

People have generally stopped asking how my shoulder is but if they did I would say 'it's getting there', but the other day it hit me - maybe this is it? I am not sure if that news filled me with joy or dread, it certainly wasn't the emotional realisation that I thought it might be.

It went through a period of being very stiff, all muscular but really painful and annoying, but that seems to have settled now. Strength is coming back and the warm up with the theraband before climbing helps loads. There's still moves that I am nervous of and hesitate on but often when I try them I find it's mental rather than physical.

The 12 month anniversary passed without emotion which surprised me. Not sure if I have dealt with it or detached myself from it, I suspect it's the latter. My mental health has taken a bit of a battering lately and I wonder if this was just one thing I didn't have the resilience for.

There are things I can't do, but it is improving. I think there is still work to do, I am hopeful that there's some more gains to be had.

Rereading this is sounds very flat, but I am in a hopeful place right now and pleased with how my shoulder is going and my climbing is progressing. Having said that I don't think I will ever be able to do a press/rock over with my left arm ever again!!
 
To me it all sounds cautiously positive? Anyway, at least you are getting on and doing stuff, and it's springtime...
 
Stay positive and keep checking in! I have a persistent shoulder problem and similarly thinking 'is this it?'. Mine wasn't an accident or particular overuse thing but just found myself with a persistent soreness that really affects full reach pulls. Might be tied into palindromic rheumatism. No shouldery dynos or parkour nonsense for me, but I didn't need much excuse to ditch these. I realised belatedly that not every problem has to be set for every climber. If people like the things I don't, that's ok. I need to get better at pulling on ratty crimps and they don't tend to set those indoors. I'm happy enough, did a 6C Saturday after a couple of fails and that seems fair to me approaching 60 and not putting that much effort into training. There's a world of climbing out there and more than enough to go at if I write a few things off. Or we could both get better and come back stronger than ever.
 
SA Chris said:
To me it all sounds cautiously positive? Anyway, at least you are getting on and doing stuff, and it's springtime...

Definitely feeling psyched for a summer of climbing and adventures, cheers as always.
 
steveri said:
Stay positive and keep checking in! I have a persistent shoulder problem and similarly thinking 'is this it?'. Mine wasn't an accident or particular overuse thing but just found myself with a persistent soreness that really affects full reach pulls. Might be tied into palindromic rheumatism. No shouldery dynos or parkour nonsense for me, but I didn't need much excuse to ditch these. I realised belatedly that not every problem has to be set for every climber. If people like the things I don't, that's ok. I need to get better at pulling on ratty crimps and they don't tend to set those indoors. I'm happy enough, did a 6C Saturday after a couple of fails and that seems fair to me approaching 60 and not putting that much effort into training. There's a world of climbing out there and more than enough to go at if I write a few things off. Or we could both get better and come back stronger than ever.

Sorry to hear of another member of the dodgy shoulder club.

This was a good realisation for me, at the wall at Christmas I was trying something and getting really cross that I couldn't do it due to my shoulder and husband just said - well there's loads of other problems. Not sure why I needed telling this but it's taken the pressure off load!
 
steveri said:
I have a persistent shoulder problem and similarly thinking 'is this it?'. Mine wasn't an accident or particular overuse thing but just found myself with a persistent soreness that really affects full reach pulls. Might be tied into palindromic rheumatism. No shouldery dynos or parkour nonsense for me, but I didn't need much excuse to ditch these. I realised belatedly that not every problem has to be set for every climber. If people like the things I don't, that's ok. I need to get better at pulling on ratty crimps and they don't tend to set those indoors. I'm happy enough, did a 6C Saturday after a couple of fails and that seems fair to me approaching 60 and not putting that much effort into training. There's a world of climbing out there and more than enough to go at if I write a few things off. Or we could both get better and come back stronger than ever.

Like we are cut from the same cloth. Except I'm only approaching 54. Even scratching my lower back with my right hand annoys my shoulder. And I've never heard of palindromic rheumatism.
 

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