Anyone got the gear for Master' s Edge?
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spidermonkey09
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I def bouldered on both of them but prob only got to the shot holes on edge lane.
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I've asked Caminati (I'm sure he'll say hi when he gets round to replying) as I had the dubious honour of belaying his flash ascent. He definitely owned a few sliders/ball nuts as I can remember a photo I took of one he used on Braille Trail (it was red).
I can't really remember if he used any gear below the shotholes only that we'd slung the nearby boulder on the floor so I could leg it and effectively take rope in.
Surely the person/people to ask on this are Tom R / P Widdy given they've lapped it dressed as bananas and other things?
I can't really remember if he used any gear below the shotholes only that we'd slung the nearby boulder on the floor so I could leg it and effectively take rope in.
Surely the person/people to ask on this are Tom R / P Widdy given they've lapped it dressed as bananas and other things?
spidermonkey09
Well-Known Member
I stand corrected!
SamT
Well-Known Member
Tom de Gay said:
I'm sure its been there since the 50s.. since its using a drilled hole from an old aid bolt.. IIRC.. there might be 3 or 4 holes in a row. (rather similar I expect to the Adam Smiths ones??)
I was joking about the petzl pulse as I suspect the old bolt holes are smaller than 8mm (1/4 inch??) and will certainly be too shallow in depth.. but it would be hilarious if you could fit one in.. or better still 3 or 4. :lol:
SamT
Well-Known Member
Has anyone fall tested the ball nut thing??
It would be interesting to see the outcome of falling expecting to be held on a rope, have it rip and dump you. As opposed to a more controlled fall/jump onto mats.
Nice confidence piece though.
It would be interesting to see the outcome of falling expecting to be held on a rope, have it rip and dump you. As opposed to a more controlled fall/jump onto mats.
Nice confidence piece though.
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T_B said:
Missed that!
It's one of those removable aid bolts which (again, from memory) someone got stuck in ME at one point?
Looks like Climb Tech:
https://www.ropeaccessequip.com/products/climb-tech-removable-bolt
highrepute
Blah
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remus said:
I think I have a video of this.
The move to shotholes feels a little bit go-ey if you on the shorter side. Go-ey enough to put me off attempting it at that height. Go-ey enough to break a leg if you come off not fully in control.
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Paul B said:
Fired up the old hard drive to look and I've got an early shot of him starting up on the arete and all that's hanging on his harness is a large nut and a tricam (blue). I've just zoomed in on the gear higher up to see that the lovely lightweight biner gates are both touching :sick:
highrepute said:
:wave:
Yeah my friend's gear was blocking the shothole so I didn't want to slap for it, put a heel around the arete and used a high smear instead but the smear popped as I was creeping my fingers into the bottom hole and I came off kind of spinning. I think I did land on a really old shit pad off to the side of the main stack though, and mainly on one leg....
I remember thinking at the time (2010) that you could maybe tie off a sturdy nail in the hole where I presume the slider thing goes, so I guess the placement must be at least that old. Psyched to hear there's potentially something rated to place there! Might have to get back on it.... :-\
SamT
Well-Known Member
Yeah, its a clip up now. :lol:
