Aims for 2018

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Mine have a few repeats I'm afraid, but I'm closer than ever before!

Bouldering goals

Boulder 7B+ - more specifically Liquid Sunshine. This isn't about the grade really, it's a long problem that for me is easier than some of the more blocy Portland 7Bs I've tried e.g Stompin' With Bez/Work Shy.

(On that note) put some serious effort into some blocy Portland 7Bs. Climb more at the Bill.

At least try to pull onto something around 7C, Ope in Hell/Riders on the Storm, to see how far off I am. Or a 7B+ bloc. Or anything around 7A+ in Dartmoor.

Go to font at least once. Tick something off my font wish list 7A+ or harder.

Sport goals

I see myself doing more bouldering this year, however the big one:

Climb 8a. I've been saying I want to do this before I'm 30 (December 2018) for a while without much progress, other than in the last two years where things do feel like they are turning around.
Aim to complete Fighting Torque by May. Try Breathing Method after this, crux looks awesome.

Lifestyle

To make the above more than just a pipe dream:

1. Return to strict nutrition plan post Christmas. Previously seen dramatic almost effortless gains from this, will be easy to implement. Including no alcohol.
2. Mindset. Read Jerry's book. Start climbing positively; no more self fulfilling prophecy!
3. Sleep hygiene. Focus on this in January. I've struggled with this to date, probably because habits are hard to break! I only struggle to get to sleep post training; but I often find I feel too tired to perform well or tired at work because I have stayed up for no good reason.

Training

1. Increased session number with reduced volume per session. From Feb I'll be driving past a climbing wall to and from work every day. No excuse.
2. Finger board session, either max hangs or repeaters once a week at least. Aim to feel comfortable with one and then switch to the other.
3. Start climbing again with people way stronger than me.

Other stuff:

Get married! Talk less about climbing to fiancée in the hope that makes her want to climb more.
Sit RCOA exams. Apply positive thinking to exam revision, something I have been hopelessly bad at until now, when all will change.

That's all I need for a happy, fulfilled, well balanced life probably!
 
Training goals

1. Resolve general finger niggles (feel like this is a life goal rather than 2018 goal)

2. hang 5s BW on BM2000 20mm rung (current PB -4kg RH -6kg LH at start of december)

3. Stick to training plan at start of the year



Climbing goals

1. Tick a few more grit 7b's (Suavito, Old King Cascade, Zippys Traverse (dropped going to jugs when I tried it for the first time in November))

2. Boulder 7c (in albarracin at the moment working a few so could go before the end of 2017 so may have to re-evaluate this if that happens!)

3. Big outdoor trip towards the end of the year



Non climbing goals

1. Meditate for at least an hour a week (possibly use the headspace app for this?) Focus is a massive isssue for me generally, maybe this will help.

2. Go on a (dare I say it) non climbing trip

3. Maybe get a haircut (probably unrealistic...)
 
Climbing:

-Crush on limestone in the spring and summer
-Climb at Gordale as much as conditions/partners allow; Defcon and the Cave Route's particularly
-Get strong on one arm (Can't even hang one armed on a jug unless my arm is completely straight), keep up the assisted one armed max hangs as much as possible
-Stay as injury free as possible
-Shorter, more frequent sessions

Non-climbing:

-Work on getting better self-esteem
-Eat healthier, and smaller portions
-See mates more
-Work hard on managing anxiety
-Work hard and more efficiently at uni
 
Hmm. Aims for 2018 - At this point I'd say:

#1 - Local Sport Projects - 2 - Party wall and Byron Glacier. Both in the 8c/+ish range and will take extraordinary effort to get fit and strong enough to make these feasible.

#2 - Find, bolt and send 2-3 more good sport projects in the 8a-b ish range.

#3 - Step up the business.
 
monkoffunk said:
mrjonathanr said:
Tried Cornell note taking?
Click to expand...

I didn't take a lot of notes last year at uni (went back to do a masters 10yrs after the first time time at uni). But I did spend a lot more time reviewing everything weekly. I.e. Making sure all was understood/absorbed. I didn't do this much first time round and had to cram/learn everything from scratch for the exams, this time I was just refreshing and preparing.

More of the problem is not taking notes at all! I think I'll be trying a few new techniques.
Click to expand...
 
I think I’ve got to be realistic in terms of what I can achieve from a climbing perspective. For the last few years I’ve wanted to chase an unattainable dream! I wanted to boulder 7C.

I got injured in April last year, and it’s taken a long time to get any kind of progress with it. After much investigation it turns out I’ll more thank likely need surgery on my shoulder to correct it. I think dry stone walling and being a tree surgeon for the last 5/6 years hasn’t helped me! There was just no time to let my body recover, and things just got worse or rather I just accepted it was painful and got on with it.

I’m not downhearted though! I’ve high hopes for 2018, I just need to be realistic in how high they are. I’d be chuffed to bits if I could get climbing 2/3 times a month to begin with. How achievable this is with new baby in the house is unknown, but I’ll do my best. I’m starting on the Joe Wicks body transformation/magic type of plan in the new year too, so I’m hoping for some good results there.

So to summarise:

Climbing aims-

Get climbing as much as I can without aggravating shoulder more, but at a level I find reasonable enough to keep my interested.

Non climbing aims-

Get fully committed with new eating and training regime.
Continue to mix sumptuous progressive house.
Get running again.
Get mountain bike dusted off, serviced and put into use.
Become successful in new job and begin ascendency to top of North Yorkshire County Council.
Raise boy to be child genius so I can retire early.
Build a porch on the house and fit a downstairs toilet and dishwasher (two separate projects obviously)

Should be easy now I’ve written it down :lol:

Good luck to everyone for the forthcoming year.
 
Aim 1

Don't fuck up quoting on UKB. :slap:

Aim 2 Trad

Broaden base of E4 onsights, 5+ E5 onsights (long term aim E6 onsight).

Aim 3 Boulder

Get out more. Barely bouldered outside last year. Long term goal 7C

Aim 4, Sport.

Would love to get to Fr7c onsight level... This year's aim? If I go on any sport trips, 7b onsights plus trying some harder ones.

Aim 5, life

Improve sleep, sort out work life balance (new job sucks up too much time, would love to reduce to 30hrs a week), reinvigorate relationship (5yrs in, flat spot!). Sell flat, buy something (preferably with garage).
 
2017 has been a big year in many ways. Bought my first house and climbed my first 8A boulder, followed by four others in short order. Hoping to keep 2018 fairly low on big life changing events and keep focused on climbing.

1. Get an overseas trip booked. I only bouldered abroad once in 2017 on a three day stop mid-summer in Wicklow, Ireland, and I'm very keen to go back to Font and/or go to Switzerland.

2. Climb 7C on the Leeds Depot 50' board. I live round the corner now, so hopefully this is realistic!

3. More of a life goal than just 2018, but I'd love to complete the This is Yorkshire tick list. So far eight down (including two of the 8s and three of the 7C+s), thirteen to go albeit almost all of them 8A upwards! Anyway, will keep plugging away with it and would be great to get another two or three of the harder ones done in 2018.

4. Finish off some of the high 7s on grit that aren't my normal style. I'm very good on roofs and compression, not so much on small holds, slabs and techy problems. Things like Lager3, Ben's Groove Sit and Underworld are high on the list here.

5. Climb 8A on UK lime and in Wales. I've so far managed 8s on Northumbrian sandstone, Lake District rhyolite and Yorkshire gritstone, so would be good to complete the set.
 
Salbit West Ridge - Nothing else matters much if I'm honest, after 18 months of crap with injuries, old and new, I reckon I might have turned the corner and I'm allowing myself to think this is completely possible. 32 pitch 1000m ED1 and all the hard pitches of around 6b are near the end which is roughly the grade I can flash easily or find a nightmare.

7a - I'm not far from this at all, I haven't been for 3 years and I'm hoping sorting the calcific tendonitis might let me finally put this to bed.

Bouldering I've no grade goals - grading is so ridiculously varied everywhere I go, it makes more sense to say there's a slab in Font I'd like to tick, an arete in Albarracin and an overhanging wall problem in Arboli. We'll see.
 
My film should be out of the way soon so 2018 is potentially an exciting year.

Do more trad I think trad is the best form of climbing. It’s (potentially) the most satisfying and in many ways it’s the hardest. Despite/ because of this I’ve done nowhere near enough of it in the last 3-4 years.

Not be shown up when my mates come over from the US There’s currently even odds that I’ll be burnt off by them on my home turf. I’d like to reduce that chance.

Onsight sport 7a, redpoint 7b (and ideally) 7b+

Equal or better 2017’s total of 98 days on rock

Drastically improve on 2017’s total of one solitary climbing trip to not-really-very-exotic Dorset

Keep making music, take more, better photos and come up with an idea for another big ambitious climbing film
 
1. Move away from Scotland ASAP as it's a fucking rubbish place to be as a climber long term (again).

2. Climb the Clatteringshaws Loch dam with an RC car before I go.

3. Buy more death metal vests (got Napalm Death and Cattle Decapitation so far, Behemoth on order).

4. Climb more routes in the Lleyn definitive guide (again).

5. Tick off some more folks from UKB and FB (tomtom and fatneck amongst others)

6. Be even more fussy about climbing conditions.

7. Keep using anti-hydral (still).

8. Spend the first 3 months of the year climbing on gritstone (again).

9. Climb more funky routes South Lakes, North Wales, South West.

10. TBA (again)
 
Fiend said:
5. Tick off some more folks from UKB and FB (tomtom and fatneck amongst others)

9. Climb more funky routes South Lakes, North Wales, South West.
Click to expand...

If you wanna tick off objectives 3 & 9 with some routes in the SW feel free to PM me in the summer!
 
Holmsey didn't I climb with you when you lived up near the Peak? Or did I mis-remember that? But yeah will be in touch when I'm heading that far south.

Andy, they have both studiously avoided me when I've been passing through Lancs / Cheshire ;) . Actually I could add to my list "Do more Andy Popp routes", maybe that is the secret #10.....
 
Fiend said:
Holmsey didn't I climb with you when you lived up near the Peak? Or did I mis-remember that? But yeah will be in touch when I'm heading that far south.
Click to expand...

Ha - I’m surprised you remember that. We met just the once up at Kinder when they were shooting photos for the Over The Moors guide (there’s a good’un on p.166 ;)), but I don’t think we’ve ever actually shared a rope.
 

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