Access issues at Coquibus -- Big Island
- Thread starter jwi
- Start date
Help Support UKBouldering.com:
rodma
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 1,634
Last summer we walked in to have a look at the problem to the right of the island. Nobody there (I mean, it was summer, so I didn't expect there to be anyone else), but there was a stack of 3 or four soggy crash pads "stashed" in plain sight and not sufficiently sheltered to not get wet.
Last October going to a different sector within the Biological Reserve, my son was bored with me projecting, so went exploring and found a crash pad along with a broken (completely broken, just a fixed length piece of aluminium 1m long with nothing else on it) brushstick. We disposed off the broken brushstick i.e. carried it out, drove it to Scotland (didn't know what bin to put it in in France) and would have done the same with the pad, had our car not already been rammed (two snap wraps and a boss hog and a family)
The laziness and selfishness exhibited with pad stashing is frankly astonishing. I regularly carry the three pads mentioned above on my own and I barely weigh any more than Paul B
Last October going to a different sector within the Biological Reserve, my son was bored with me projecting, so went exploring and found a crash pad along with a broken (completely broken, just a fixed length piece of aluminium 1m long with nothing else on it) brushstick. We disposed off the broken brushstick i.e. carried it out, drove it to Scotland (didn't know what bin to put it in in France) and would have done the same with the pad, had our car not already been rammed (two snap wraps and a boss hog and a family)
The laziness and selfishness exhibited with pad stashing is frankly astonishing. I regularly carry the three pads mentioned above on my own and I barely weigh any more than Paul B
Duma
Well-Known Member
Saw a vid on IG of someone doing said problem, seemed to have a Bluetooth speaker going. Twat.
thunderbeest
Well-Known Member
So for once those annoying kids took out their ear pods? Or did he still have them in with the speaker going?
sirlockoff
@sirlockoff
mejidi also uploaded video about climbing big island, was climbing in pitch black and screaming, wanted to continue watching it today but it's gone (let's hope there was some pressure from sponsors!), though I have never understood the night rule, is it when it gets dark, or when it is night? First being on the winter times 4:30 when it's already pitch black, which kind of implies that there is no climbing mon-fri for normal working person in font. VS eg no climbing after 8pm, (reason I ask is I've seen two philosophies of this!)
the other side of the coin would be when it is 10PM and there is still light.
I saw no calling out from big guns like manu coru either
the other side of the coin would be when it is 10PM and there is still light.
I saw no calling out from big guns like manu coru either
spidermonkey09
Well-Known Member
No climbing at night in practice means the landowners don't want lights there when its dark I'd imagine, just as it does in the UK. I've never understood the view that lamping should be allowed because its the only time people can get out. Landowners don't care and I can see why.
Also what Plattsy says: https://bleau.info/ethique?locale=en
Also what Plattsy says: https://bleau.info/ethique?locale=en
I took it whilst in font for a long period to be what Jim had said (as in no lamping at all) , but the new rules about parking until 10 is leading me to take it to mean until 10 is fine to be honest. I'd have thought if the rules were to stipulate otherwise the parking rules would have specified nightfall or 1h after nightfall for example.
I'm curious as to what would people would say if someone tried something like trojan war at night which is literally lit by street lights at night for example though...
I'm curious as to what would people would say if someone tried something like trojan war at night which is literally lit by street lights at night for example though...
Ross Barker
Deathly afraid of traverses
I would've thought the parking until 10 rule would be to curb vanlifers and those camping in the woods, rather than anything specifically about climbing.
Approximately there:
Buthiers, Île-de-France
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HAhZPAGua6PFTRfW7 Rodma.
I don't disagree jwi, but I'd also argue then that a number of crags that are seconds away from roads that are busy throughout the night (Buthiers Nord is next to a very busy road) and the increased impact by climbers at those spots would be minimal at best. Equally I understand why blanket restrictions is what has happened, but in some ways they seem heavy handed.
In terms of camper vans being banned at most spots, I understand the other side (in terms of how busy it was in Easter etc) but equally have met many people who are not as fortunate as I (I'm able to do long stays in Airbnbs due to life flexibility) and would stay in a van as cheaply as possible and at certain times of the year (when the Bivouacs are full) will now be priced out of the area which is disappointing as it does seem like often the poorer in society are those who are impacted the most by restrictions such as the that of the overnight parking issues. Some of the comments online about this topic reek of privilege to me.
Back on topic, the music at the crag I do think is pretty ridiculous. Climbing at night in the coquibus is also a bit shit.
Buthiers, Île-de-France
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HAhZPAGua6PFTRfW7 Rodma.
I don't disagree jwi, but I'd also argue then that a number of crags that are seconds away from roads that are busy throughout the night (Buthiers Nord is next to a very busy road) and the increased impact by climbers at those spots would be minimal at best. Equally I understand why blanket restrictions is what has happened, but in some ways they seem heavy handed.
In terms of camper vans being banned at most spots, I understand the other side (in terms of how busy it was in Easter etc) but equally have met many people who are not as fortunate as I (I'm able to do long stays in Airbnbs due to life flexibility) and would stay in a van as cheaply as possible and at certain times of the year (when the Bivouacs are full) will now be priced out of the area which is disappointing as it does seem like often the poorer in society are those who are impacted the most by restrictions such as the that of the overnight parking issues. Some of the comments online about this topic reek of privilege to me.
Back on topic, the music at the crag I do think is pretty ridiculous. Climbing at night in the coquibus is also a bit shit.
rodma
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 1,634
Thanks Yetix
I was trying to see if on managed land at Buthiers (i had a bit of a Google), but am struggling. Certainly not in a BR or on ONF land as far as I can see, so as much as we think of things as being as in the forest, it's never quite that straightforward
I was trying to see if on managed land at Buthiers (i had a bit of a Google), but am struggling. Certainly not in a BR or on ONF land as far as I can see, so as much as we think of things as being as in the forest, it's never quite that straightforward
