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  1. C

    significant repeats

    Hamish with an insane ticklist 🤯
  2. C

    Bosiwad

    Grade maths is weird. It took Will 6 sessions to climb the easier start into Terranova which is only meant to be 8B+/C but 8 sessions to send spots of time.
  3. C

    significant repeats

    Makes you wonder what the very top guys in comps like Sorato can do outdoors. I know that Tomoa came very close to flashing 8C a while back.
  4. C

    significant repeats

    Ondra Fa'd two 8C's and an 8B in a day back a couple years back. https://www.instagram.com/p/B44J_8YJq0Q/?utm_source=ig_embed Shawn Rabatou also climbed Story of three Worlds twice in a session becuase he dabbed on the a tree the first time he climbed it.
  5. C

    The inevitable E grade thread

    I guess as someone else itt already said technique and strength are deeply intertwined. Being able to keep maximal weight on your feet requires a strong posterial chain, in addition to good balance and spacial awareness. Equally, even climbing on a steep board requires good technique and...
  6. C

    The inevitable E grade thread

    I disagree, it's hard enough to get multiple people to agree on a grade as is. Things like technical skill required are even more subjective since for example what might be a piss heelhook for one person could feel desperate for another. Grades are only a rough guideline at best anyway, and...
  7. C

    The inevitable E grade thread

    yeah the logic that a short boulder close to the ground = a lower E grade still doesn't make sense to me. Would that mean Lucid Dreaming would only get E6 since the meat of the boulder is all pretty low down followed by a 7a slab?
  8. C

    The inevitable E grade thread

    Re: The inevitable grade thread I'm not sure I really understand your point about Font. Those technical v4s in font will feel every bit of v4 when you execute them with perfect technique. On the other hand, a font 7B+ boulder problem is going to feel substantially harder than any 6C boulder no...
  9. C

    The inevitable E grade thread

    Re: The inevitable grade thread I admittedly don't have too much experience with trad grades but if sport 8a translates to E6 or harder, then yeah it makes no sense WSS can be less than E6 considering there are virtually almost no sport routes less than 8a with a 7B+ boulder crux.
  10. C

    significant repeats

    Someone needs to fly Tomoa out to burden. I reckon he would piss it with the new method.
  11. C

    Kilter Board

    Tbh I don't think grades don't make that much sense in general. I.e. I feel like 7b at the cuttings, 7b in cheddar, and 7b in Mallorca all feel different even accounting for style.
  12. C

    Wil Bosi has repeated Return of the Sleepwalker 9A

    He participated in almost every lead world cup last year as well as both olympic qualifying events. Just because he's better at boulder doesn't mean he doesn't train lead too.
  13. C

    Kilter Board

    I think it's partly dependent on the grade you're climbing at. I find the kilter board is particularly soft at the 7B and below range but evens out at v10+.
  14. C

    Wil Bosi has repeated Return of the Sleepwalker 9A

    Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good. Even though the comp style of climbing...
  15. C

    Topic split: Ondra repeats Bon Voyage and grade debate

    I'm not a trad climber so maybe just my ignorance here but if English tech grades are based on the hardest sequence of moves and not the hardest single move then how come a 7C and 8B boulder can both get the same tech grade, since such a huge grade discrepcancy guarantees the crux sequence on...
  16. C

    Wil Bosi has repeated Return of the Sleepwalker 9A

    Does this further cement Terranova as solidly in the 9A range? Absolutely dying that the potential hardest boulder in the world is some manky limestone eliminate.
  17. C

    Topic split: Ondra repeats Bon Voyage and grade debate

    This is the only rational answer.
  18. C

    Coaching, training plan, advice from a mate?

    Larger pool of talent had definitely role in the rate of grade progression but to me I think the evolution of training methodology has surely played an equally important part. The difference is so stark that guys at the top end like Will are sending boulders in a couple tries that were right at...
  19. C

    Bosiwad

    Maybe this just makes me a bad grader then, but I cba trying to grade problems on how hard I think a move is going to feel for someone else, I just grade on how hard something feels for me. I find even among problems that on are on paper in the same style and in a similar grade range there is...
  20. C

    Bosiwad

    Equally conversely to Albarracin you've got places like Font where many of the 5-6's have become polished as shit over time due to usage of POF but people still refuse to upgrade them because of the history involved. Also on the topic of grading REM by Giuliano has been re-upgraded to 8C+ by...
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