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  1. S

    Anston Conditions

    Oh got the days mixed up (still getting used to new forum!) imagine it is knackered today
  2. S

    Anston Conditions

    Interesting, surprised it's not really condensed with the temp spike and high humidity. Anyone care to give a prediction for tomorrow?
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    In situ threads

    I remember reading, I think in the 'On Peak Rock' guide, that people climb(ed) with a 'Beeston Broddler' (coat hanger or something?) to get the threads in there. Not too sure if the idea was that you managed to do this on lead or just on ab? I remember the routes being really good, especially...
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    In situ threads

    Some interesting responses. I guess it was the fact that the situation with threads didn't seem all that logical or coherent that got me wondering about it in the first place. I've enjoyed seeing how they carry such a positive emotional valence for many of us (apart from the cold hearted Ali...
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    In situ threads

    I’ve been contemplating the ethics, possible history and my own preferences of in situ threads a bit recently. It’s not something I’ve seen discussed very much so thought it might be worth putting this out there. There's quite a whiff of UKC about all this but I'll crack on anyway. Up until...
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    Left/right endurance disparity

    I've had a similar issue in the past, perhaps not quite as marked as what you're describing but I was very aware my left side got more pumped more quickly - I'd always preference clipping off my right and sacrificing my right more at rests. How's your shoulder on the bad side? For me, it didn't...
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    Max Grade v Flashed Grade (Bouldering)

    This is The Way of the enlightened connoisseur..... Calculated and deliberate Flash attempts on boulder problems have become, and perhaps always were, the domain of the overly competitive and egotistical. -3 since you ask :lol:
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    North York Moors - beta please!

    Going back a while but I remember the huntsman boulder being in a nice position with really nice rock. Essentially a one problem venue (as quite often the case with the moors) and a lowball trav at that but remember it being good quality...
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    North York Moors - beta please!

    Update on previous post: they've now fully closed (barricaded) the road down to stoupe brow so it's a bit of hike down to the quarry from parking on the top of the moor (30 mins?) at the moment. The sun doesn't get in there at all really by this time of year and even with low humidity it seems...
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    Least unreliable vans

    You (understandably) seem quite attached to the idea of a VAG 1.9tdi Are you a lucky person? Are you able to judge something reasonably well on a test drive? They are out there - Something like this might just get you to Switzerland and back? As big as a van with all the seats out whilst being...
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    Topic split: What are the rules at High Tor?

    Saw someone on the Diedre a few weeks ago! I'd agree it's problematic (for want of a better word!) that these routes don't get done enough. I imagine there's a strong snowball effect though where if they do start to get done, they could become popular again. It felt like Blue was about getting...
  12. S

    North York Moors - beta please!

    Just a heads up - the road down to stoupe is closed at the moment (but still open to 'access only'). Who knows when anything will happen with it. May want to avoid if in a bigger/wider vehicle eg. big van as the reason it's closed is a small section of road collapsing down the hillside.... It's...
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    Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!

    No. the 2.0 = Lower economy, lower reliability, reduced longevity and over complicated aka bad engineering (egr, dpf, etc.) bollocks all in the pursuit of fudging reduced emissions.
  14. S

    Unparallel sizing question - Up lace

    Nice one, thanks cheque
  15. S

    Unparallel sizing question - Up lace

    If I'm a 7.5 uk in TN pros and also a 7.5 uk in Up rise LV what size Up lace should I get? Also 7.5? The TN pros are tighter fit than the up rise lv - which is ideal as bouldering vs routes shoe. I want the Up lace for routes primarily so after the same sort of fit as the up rise LV. Thanks
  16. S

    significant repeats

    Rachel Pearce repeated Olwen E9 6c today (saw it on ukc logs) Significant in itself I'm sure but also worth a look at her logbook for the past couple of months or so - relentless waddage!
  17. S

    Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing

    Guessing start position
  18. S

    Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing

    Appeal from the French. Comme d'habitude.
  19. S

    Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing

    Agreed. It's less predictable than those odds suggest I reckon. Particularly re. Bertone and Grossman odds
  20. S

    Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing

    Maybe would consider doing that but none of the finalists fit that criteria!
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