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Roaches Project?
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Jim
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Pregnant Horse
Roaches Project?
September 06, 2003, 09:39:12 am
Has anyone done this slab as its been my project for a few years now and I was horrified to see this piccy on here. I recon it will definately go.Please tell me no-ones done it
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Bubba
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#1 Roaches Project?
September 06, 2003, 09:58:02 am
Well I don't think FatboySlimfat (pictured) did it on that occasion, but not sure whether it's been done or not. I'd be surprised if it hasn't but I'm not no Roaches expert. Justin Critchlow will know I reckon...
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fatboySlimfast
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#2 Roaches Project?
September 06, 2003, 10:29:53 am
no i didnt do it and its still a project......think justins in hiding from the horrible glowey thing in the sky...once darkness and coldness stalk the land again he will return, or so james told me!
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hongkongstuey
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#3 Roaches Project?
September 06, 2003, 10:51:09 am
i managed a few moves more than where FBS is in that piccie but then holds just vanished - FBS, being the punter he is, didn't get much further than shown :twisted:
it'll definately go one day
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Jim
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#4 Roaches Project?
September 06, 2003, 11:14:09 am
I'm one move away, there's a good slopey dish with a little dimple in it that you can get a good mono-crimp-slope type for your left hand. Then you need to get right foot up really high up to the extra sharp pepple thing. After that you gotta rock like a mutha to get the top (i reckon). I am deffinately gonna get it this year. Glad to hear its not been done yet
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james
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#5 Roaches Project?
September 07, 2003, 09:26:38 pm
I am sorry but I have done it. It is about font 7c/7c+.
It is not as hard as I thought it would be but is still quite tricky. As far as I know it is still unrepeated.
Cheers
James
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Pantontino
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#6 Roaches Project?
September 07, 2003, 11:34:23 pm
James when did you climb it? Has it got a name?
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hongkongstuey
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#7 Roaches Project?
September 08, 2003, 01:40:08 am
nice one James
i was getting to about the same point as Jim about three years ago but then ran away and left the UK!
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james
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#8 Roaches Project?
September 08, 2003, 07:38:10 am
I think I did it on the 5th of may or thereabouts. I called it Parental Duties.
Cheers
James
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Jim
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#9 Roaches Project?
September 08, 2003, 09:19:45 am
Good effort james,
did my sequence on the top slab sound about right?
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james
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#10 Roaches Project?
September 08, 2003, 09:23:45 am
I got to where fbsf is and then put rightfoot high in the seam. I then rocked over and got left foot on pebble and left hand in dish. I think I then boosted left foot again and rocked overto the heather (I might be wrong, it might be right foot).
Cheers
James
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Jim
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#11 Roaches Project?
September 08, 2003, 09:52:53 am
that first rock-over has got to be a sick move
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hongkongstuey
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#12 Roaches Project?
September 08, 2003, 09:56:31 am
Quote from: "james"
I got to where fbsf is and then put rightfoot high in the seam.
i think thats what i was doing too Jim (two possible bits you coould get your foot on depending how flexible you are) seem to recall a slight (or should that be shite) undercut / pinch hold with the right hand just above the foot to try and pull the weight onto it
unfortunately thats where i kept coming off from so can't shed any more light on the next moves
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