[Will Hunt]

Doing an article bigging up my local for t'internet. Took some really nice photos today but need more with more climbers featuring that just me and my friend. Anyone willing to solo/lead the following routes and get snapped for the article will receive waddage and a hearty thank you:

Bermuda Triangle
Breakaway
Hart’s Arete (boulder problem start)
Cobweb Crack
Sweeney Arete
Dateline
Black Magic
Mankey Road
Pisa Traverse

[magpie]

Don't know if it's any help Will but Cliff doesn't have any work on for the next couple of days and was looking for folk to get out with, maybe give him a call or email and see if he's up for it if you're short of people? I'm assuming you mean Pex?  I know he was quite keen to get back down there at some point and have a go at a few of the routes / problems.

[Nibile]

i would happily come north if i can toprope and if you pay my flight.
now that's a bargain you must admit.
 

[BenF]

I've sent you a pm Will.  I don't know what photos you've got already but as you know there's plenty more routes/problems worth taking photos of...  Creeping Jesus has got to be well photogenic on the final wall section and The Knife is a reasonable line!

[Andy F]

I find it hard to believe that Catalepsy isn't on the list 

[Will Hunt]

The Knife is definitely on the list but fortunately I already have a pic of Ewan doing it. Sadly I dont know how good Catalepsy is because I ain't got the skillz to get past the first few moves and topping out scares me. I may put in a note about it though.

A 1000 word limit ain't easy!

[BenF]

Catalepsy is fuckin' brilliant Will, better than Breakaway.  If it's the top out that's scaring you, its well clean at the moment and compared to the lower moves, the top is piss.  Easier than finishing Bermuda, or even Algrippa for example.

[BenF]

Oh yeah, anyone have any idea who did the radical tree/soil clearance under the Knife/Staminade etc the other night?  Went down there last night and since Tuesday someone has leveled the ground all the way along that wall, removing the vegetation and hopefully allowing the wall to dry properly.  Looks a mess at the moment but when the grass grows back I imagine that it'll be an improvement and there is now a proper flat landing under the routes (so we can all lob off the top of The Knife and land on our pads with comfort now). 

[Richie Crouch]

I've got some good snaps of Dolph crushing Monoblock and Grand Horizontal from earlier this year that I don't mind you using if he says its ok?

[BenF]

I've got some shit shots of Richie looking dodgy on some easy things. 

[Richie Crouch]

It's all about the hustling on the warm-up, followed by french blows & helicopter hand top outs 

[BenF]

It's all about the lack of warm-up, followed by blowing Mono & helicopter tumbles onto pads 

 

[Will Hunt]

so we can all lob off the top of The Knife and land on our pads with comfort now 

I've got some shit shots of Richie looking dodgy on some easy things. 

I would pay to see both of these things.

Would be great to see the Monoblock and Grand Horizontal pics too. If someone wants to write me a summary of Catalepsy (i.e. a bit about its character and why its so special) then I will include it over Breakaway. Is the grade confirmed at V7 6c (I dont understand font grades yet).

[Jaspersharpe]

Is the grade confirmed at V7 6c (I dont understand font grades yet).

 

[andy popp]

I've got some good snaps of Dolph crushing Monoblock and Grand Horizontal from earlier this year that I don't mind you using if he says its ok?

Can we see the Monoblock shots here please?

[BenF]

Would be great to see the Monoblock and Grand Horizontal pics too. If someone wants to write me a summary of Catalepsy (i.e. a bit about its character and why its so special) then I will include it over Breakaway. Is the grade confirmed at V7 6c (I dont understand font grades yet).

I can write you a bit about Catalepsy if you want (as I can talk for days about all things Pex at the moment).

As for the grade, it's under discussion as far as I'm concerned.  At the moment its in the guide at V7 6c but personally I feel that V6 is more appropriate but this is not consensus yet and I'm not writing the Pex bit, just adding my thoughts/checking etc.  There was a discussion about Font grades and although there was/is a feeling that Font grades would be good to use, all recent BMC guides have used V grades and I think we agreed to keep to this. 

[Jaspersharpe]

It's a shame that the BMC have decided on this Canute like stance on grades. At a time when V grades are thankfully dying out in this country they seem to have assumed the "na na na, can't hear you, what do you mean the tide's coming in?" position.

[BenF]

I'm not sure it's a stance or that anything is set in stone (correct me if I'm wrong Grimer or others) and we may indeed put our grades in Font stylee as it definitely seems a prefered system across the country now.  I'm certainly more than happy to alter the grades in my Frodsham section to Font grades.

[Monolith]

Algrippa

Thought it was spelt 'Algripper' are you still just a yoof?

[BenF]

Thought it was spelt 'Algripper' are you still just a yoof?

Don't believe the guide.  Believe me.

[Andy F]

For what it's worth, I think Catalepsy is Fnt 7a+/V7/Uk6b. It is, in my opinion, the best problem I've done at Pex. The hand holds make a perfect C, it's a sequence of beautiful moves that would grace any crag.

[Monolith]

I was amused to watch Rob Clifton flash Breakaway in the rain in toe-downs but be denied by Catalepsy.

[BenF]

For what it's worth, I think Catalepsy is Fnt 7a+/V7/Uk6b. It is, in my opinion, the best problem I've done at Pex. The hand holds make a perfect C, it's a sequence of beautiful moves that would grace any crag.

That kind of love for Pex is worth a lot with me Andy.  Opinion noted.

[dave smith]

I might come across from Leeds at some point, and try to persuade Dan to head down too, but I doubt I'll be up to any of the sort of shit-hard stuff you want photos of

[Will Hunt]

I reckon you could do Mankey Road or Sweeney Arete. Unfortunately I already have someone lined up for the latter.