[north_country_boy]

As above, the teenage wonder kid strikes again! Dispatching the famous Action Directe, 9a in the Frankenjura

[Nibile]

ohhhh, i've been waiting for this.
crazy guy.
made me happy.

[Nibile]

he's online now on 8a.nu. adding the tick. i can't help but imagine his face while at the pc, a young modest boy who's making our world tremble.

[Jaspersharpe]

[Nibile]

"Adam Ondra is revolutionizing rock climbing standards, so have some respect, and be inspired!!!"
from dave graham's blog...

[SA Chris]

At what point does "Ondra despatches something bullet hard with ease" stop being news. At the moment though, I am continually amazed by the guy.

[Paul B]

  

[Jaspersharpe]

I like how it seems that he's taking on all the classic hard routes regardless of the type of climbing. I don't think many of the previous Action Directe ascentionists also had / have the stamina to do the massive pump fests that Ondra has done. Likewise Uzogbreadboardixitrix et al don't appear to have the explosive power for routes like Action. This is amazing stuff we're seeing.

[Paul B]

I might doubt that fact.

[Jaspersharpe]

Which one? If you notice the post was heavily laden with provisos as none of it is fact and all of it conjecture. I'm just trying to think of anyone who's operating at 9a and above in both "disciplines" and can't.

[eteve]

are you familiar with the work of iker pou? dave graham or christian bindhammer? i think they are pretty all round amazing climbers in pretty much all departments, like adam.

[slackline]

  more 9a's in a year than most people could ever dream of doing in ten life-times!

More conjecture, but do you think this whipper-snapper would have the balls to get on some hard trad?

Seeing as it would be well below his top grade (isn't the F tech for Rhapsody 8c?) it shouldn't be too much hassle to dispatch a few of 'em in quality on-sight styleee.

[Paul B]

I like how it seems that he's taking on all the classic hard routes regardless of the type of climbing. I don't think many of the previous Action Directe ascentionists also had / have the stamina to do the massive pump fests that Ondra has done. Likewise Uzogbreadboardixitrix et al don't appear to have the explosive power for routes like Action. This is amazing stuff we're seeing.

the explosive power bit, these guys are beasts and i'm pretty sure they'll turn their hand to it at some point but then again thats just conjecture as well.

[Jaspersharpe]

are you familiar with the work of iker pou? dave graham or christian bindhammer? i think they are pretty all round amazing climbers in pretty much all departments, like adam.

Hmmm. Very true.     

Time to switch the PC off and go climbing methinks.

[Nibile]

Time to switch the PC off and go climbing methinks.

ohh that's so unfair.

[JohnM]

He may not be motivated to try trad.  Just because someone is climbing at a very high standard does not necessarily mean they want to climb, even at a lower standard, in dangerous situation.  For example, a proffesional road biker would probably not think 'I have all this explosive leg power and endurance I might as well try my hand at dowhill biking or duel slalom!'.     

[slackline]

Aye, very true, was just musing.

[Percy B]

Ondra is climbing better than Iker Pou, Bindhammer and Dave Graham I'm afraid. We just need to get over it and except that this kid is taking climbing to a new level. I've seen him crushing 8b boulder problems, a mate of mine watched him hike Rambla 4th go like he was warming up (Andrada was watching too, and he still hasn't done this route!). At least Adam had the common decency to find Action Direct hard. He is traveling to all the famous areas and dispatching on all rock types - bouldering and routes. Before anybody asks what hes done on grit, he hasn't visited yet (and lets keep it that way to save further embarrassment)!

[Paul B]

Ondra is climbing better than Iker Pou, Bindhammer and Dave Graham I'm afraid. We just need to get over it and except that this kid is taking climbing to a new level.

Done

[eteve]

i seriously hope he does take it to a new level and i am sure he will. the route is 17yrs old though? when he starts doing fa 9bs and up which i am sure he will then he is taking things to a new level.

[richdraws]

Does anyone know how many goes it has taken the previous ascentionists? Has anyone done without specific training?

1. Wolfgang Güllich (1991) - FA
2. Alexander Adler (1995)
3. Iker Pou (2000)
4. Dave Graham (2001)
5. Christian Bindhammer (2003)
6. Richard Simpson (2005)
7. Dai Koyamada (2005)
8. Markus Bock (2005)
9. Kilian Fischhuber (2006)

[north_country_boy]

Graham apparently did it without any specific training, however he did apparently spend a year or so prior doing similar style boulders with dynamic moves on monos etc.....(as i have been told)

[Nibile]

adler: ages. at least six months of specific training and losing 6 kg. he said in an itw to desnivel "every 0,5 kg lost i was doing better"
iker pou: ages. at least two winters i think. second year he was there for many weeks and iirc he fell 16 or so times between last bolt and chain (from desnivel)
graham: one week.

others i dunno.

[Jim]

i seriously hope he does take it to a new level and i am sure he will. the route is 17yrs old though? when he starts doing fa 9bs and up which i am sure he will then he is taking things to a new level.

well put

[Kingy]

I think Marcus Bock spent years trying it back in the day and it became a bit of a mental block. He said it was not the hardest route in the Jura for him and that some of his new 9a routes were harder.