[Rhys]

I was studying the Northern Soul guide last night (saddo that I am), and I read that John Redhead did the first ascent of the Caseg Groove. I found this fascinating- did he discover the boulders? Does anybody know any backstory? At the moment I'm writing a bit of an essay on the man so ANY information would be hugely appreciated.

I suspect that Mr Panton knows the answers, if you're reading this will there be a history secion in the new guide? Cheers. :D

[Pantontino]

Apologies for the late reply, I've been away in France at a wedding (awesome 3 day piss up!).

JR did do the 1st ascent of the Groove, but more impressive and certainly groundbreaking/cutting edge was his traverse of the Braichmelyn Boulder (aka Super Boulder). V8/V8+ in 1981!

Just to piss Mick Ryan off I've included a massive history section in the guide that Mark Katz helped me with.

If you want some intersting stories for your piece on JR, I can put you in touch with people like Mark Lynden and Dave Towse, who climbed with him in the early 80s. JR has got a rubbish memory, so you would be better asking his mates for facts.

Cheers, Simon.

[Rhys]

Thanks for getting back, sounds a good trip! That would be much appreciated- although I'm notorious for how long it takes me to write these things (it was a running joke when I was in Edinburgh). At the moment I'm trying to read everthing I can get hold of before I start properly- but if I could get back to you that would be amazing :D .

Good effort on the history section, it must have been a nightmare reearching it!

Oh yeah, I think I'll go and check out the Super boulder this week. I've never been before and I'm well curious. Are there any problems other than those in Northern Soul? Cheers.

[dontfollowme]

There's a few good problems there, one of which is actually finding it I couldn't work out the sit start on the arete problem or the finishing moves of the problem next to it

[Pantontino]

The sit start to the arete is superb; killer slappy and uncertain moves - probably V6. Did you spot the very low foothold?

Did you notice the wierd marking on the rock? In the centre of the face there is a bizarre looking man/creature reminiscent of some of JRs drawings. Perhaps this was his original subliminal muse? I didn't notice it until I was drawing lines on the photo topo.

As for the name, Dave Towse assures me that him and JR never referred to it as the Super Boulder, rather as the Braichmelyn Boulder.

Dave is still cranking these days; he nearly did Ultimate Retro Party (V7/8) last night - and boy was it sweaty and midgy up the Pass.

[Pantontino]

The history was actually quite easy to write, because I reckon that over 80% of the problems in the guide were climbed post '95. Before that there were only occasional events, such as Jerry's Roof or Harris' Arete to focus upon.

I did once get involved in writing a history for the Yorkshire guide, but in the end I backed out because of all the bitching and disagreement.

The naming and recording of problems with any kind of rigour is really a modern phenomena. Some people would have us go back to the old mythical/bullshit days, but I actually like to know who did what and when, and I think that the first ascent of a good boulder problem is just as exciting as a route.

[dave]

whens the guide expected on t'shelves si? i got a 20bar giro burning a hole on my shellsuit here.

[Jim]

I did once get involved in writing a history for the Yorkshire guide, but in the end I backed out because of all the bitching and disagreement.s

You're still mentioned in it tho and there's that picture of you on the sheriff

[Adam Lincoln]

I did once get involved in writing a history for the Yorkshire guide, but in the end I backed out because of all the bitching and disagreement.s

You're still mentioned in it tho and there's that picture of you on the sheriff

And, The Rack, at Brimham, non?

[Pantontino]

Dave, soon is the best I can offer at the moment.

As for the Yorks history - I pulled out of writing the full piece, but let Al Cameron Duff use some of the stuff I'd researched. He wrote the final article, not me.

The caption on the Rack is a mistake. It's actually Chris Davies.

There's loads of other photo caption mistakes. Gav Foster at West Vale is actually Kristian Clemmow and I think there's a picture of Christian Durkin credited as someone else - on Access Denied I think.

The Sherriff was the product of going to same local crag too often. I think I only did it because Steve Rhodes had failed on it. Never mind a sitter, this is a proper lie down start - still a good and quite brutal little thing. I believe it has settled at around V8 these days.

[dave]

Soon is good enough for me, cheers. Hope it sells like rockinghorse shit.

There's loads of other photo caption mistakes. Gav Foster at West Vale is actually Kristian Clemmow and I think there's a picture of Christian Durkin credited as someone else - on Access Denied I think.

I think even i spotted the clemmow one. i think the access denied things are captioned as tim clifford.