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Baslow recent additions (Read 15937 times)

r-man

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Baslow recent additions
April 09, 2008, 03:46:49 pm
There have been a few additions to Baslow in recent times, but details have all ended up buried in random threads. As I did another new one last week, I thought it might be good to big them all up...

1. Something I discovered on Sunday, which turned out to be much better than it looked. It's a bulge on the left end of the boulder round the side of the Flatworld block.

Lilliput, 7a+
From the two lowest holds, chase the edges over the bulge, making judicious use of the foot ramp.

Here's a video from a crap angle, of a rather sloppy ascent. Hitting the top hold I realised I hadn't cleaned the moss off the back, and just had to squeeze the squidge as my body bounced around. All good fun. Notice the hail - crazy weather that day.



2. Andy B mentioned this on another thread, so I assume it's ok to mention it here. Further along the hillside from Fact hunt is another wall, that is easiest to get to from the top track. It is vertical, slightly highball, and on excellent rock. Problems developed by Cofe and Andy B:

The left arete. 6b
(what's this called cofe?)

Glove Love 7a
The wall up hairline cracks left of centre

Honeypot Wall 6b
The central line  (an Al Williams problem)

Mangina 6c
Direct/righthand start to Honeypot Wall.

Andy B also did a very small sit start lip and rock over problem up behind and to the right of Honeypot Wall at 7aish

3. Some time ago Neil Travers did some new problems, which are well worth seeking out. Find a path down from the top shortly before the big house-sized boulder down on the slope, assuming you are walking in from Curbar end. This is all uphill from the walnut. The problems are on the edge, so you don't need to scramble downhill at all. Very good problems.

Undercutting, 7a+
Climb the wall 1 metre left of the arête to the obvious notch without using the arête.

To avoid confusion, the problem starts "about 1m left of the arete slightly up the bank with right hand on thin undercut/pinch and left on small edge, followed by funny left hand flick to 2 finger undercut to gain the obvious undercut with your right hand."

Heart Stopper 6c
Climb the arête from a sit start, don’t use the notch out left.

I'm not entirely convinced about the need to ss and eliminate on this one. From standing, with the notch, it is an excellent done-years-ago highball 6b:

The Ripper (strict) 7c
Climb the wall to the right to it’s highest point without using the arête at all, and without veering left at the top.

Nice undercutting to balance up to a couple of small crimps, step up on more smears and bang for the top.

The Ripper (with arete) 7a+
A blind foothold on the arete enables a stiff rock leftwards for the finishing jug.

The Ripper:


Non-eliminate version of undercutting:


4. Elmer Fudd. For those people who can't be bothered to read the grade changes thread, but who have been confused by Elmer Fudd, consenus seems to be that there are two lines:

Elmer Fudd left-hand 6c+
Climb the wall just right of the arete

Elmer Fudd right-hand 7a
Climb the wall using the starting foothold of Fatworld. Move left and up via poor holds.

Kingy

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#1 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 09, 2008, 04:10:52 pm
Nice work R-man I may have a butchers at this lot next time I'm up there.

mark

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#2 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 09, 2008, 05:39:00 pm
Was out at Baslow today and repeated your problem Lilliput. Good little problem. Enjoyed it so much in fact that I climbed it twice with completely different sequences. Did it the way you do in the vid but also did it by putting a left heel in the little diagonal break on the left - the start handholds in your vid - and rocking high for the top. Good find, r-man.

r-man

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#3 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 09, 2008, 06:11:09 pm
Cool. Glad you liked. I did wonder later if a heel-rockover was possible. Perhaps it merits a different name/description? Lilliput Left - use a heel to rock straight to the top? Or pick another name. Grade?
 
Shall give it a go next time I'm there.   :)

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#4 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 09, 2008, 07:57:32 pm
Cool. Glad you liked. I did wonder later if a heel-rockover was possible. Perhaps it merits a different name/description? Lilliput Left - use a heel to rock straight to the top? Or pick another name. Grade?
 
Shall give it a go next time I'm there.   :)

I think your name should cover both sequences. The only difference is whether you have your legs to the right or the left.

Grade? Well, both sequences felt about the same, and they both felt about the same as the sitter to Hurry On Sundown which I had just done. Then again, I also failed to do Elmer Fudd once again, so logically Lilliput must be 7a+ but also easier than 7a! Don't ask me, I'm terrible at grading things.

cofe

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#5 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 10, 2008, 10:53:35 am
can't remember what the left arete was called. will check. baslow is great.

Scouse D

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#6 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 21, 2008, 10:50:45 pm
did lilliput and ripper today.
Lilliput was very nice.I thought 7a
Ripper I thought was very good but more like 7b

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#7 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 21, 2008, 10:53:02 pm
Hurry on sundown sitter felt hard for 7a+. didn't use block in the crack, looked well not kosher

r-man

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#8 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 21, 2008, 11:15:54 pm
did lilliput and ripper today.
Lilliput was very nice.I thought 7a
Ripper I thought was very good but more like 7b

Yeah, was a toss-up between 7a and + for Lilliput. I wouldn't argue with 7a. Glad its getting some attention, despite the crap video.
Ripper felt 7b to me also. I talked to Neil after and I think he may have had a harder sequence for the top.
There is no BLOCK in the crack of HoD! ::)

r-man

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#9 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 21, 2008, 11:23:31 pm
Did you do both versions of the Ripper, or just the strict way? Both are worthwhile, with very different cruxes.

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#10 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 22, 2008, 09:12:15 am
Just did strict way. Was chasing the numbers,and running out of time!
don't know how you sleep at night after using that 'not-block'/block, not only is it a chockstone it's also covered in mud and grass!

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#11 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 22, 2008, 10:20:21 am
Where is ripper and hurry on sun down (what does this look like)? Might go to baslow tomorrow and have a look!

Scouse D

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#12 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 22, 2008, 10:26:22 am
Hurry on sundown is the arete right of flatworld. Ripper is the problem mentioned in this thread by rman. There a pic of it too!It's a nice crimpy wall, must have been done in a very static fashion by FA.

r-man

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#13 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 22, 2008, 11:39:50 am
don't know how you sleep at night after using that 'not-block'/block, not only is it a chockstone it's also covered in mud and grass!

What madness is this? Assuming you are being serious, maybe there is a block in the crack (I can't remember one) but this isn't the foothold people are referring too. The key foothold is on the arete. It's just that it's very close to the other side of the crack, which makes it feel a bit naughty. Oo er.

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#14 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 22, 2008, 11:46:46 am
Can someone post a photo of the offending footer? My mind is intrigued

Scouse D

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#15 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 22, 2008, 01:00:36 pm
sounds ok then robin, from your first description I thought you must've meant the chock. I think I now know what you mean.Maybe.:)

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#16 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 10:41:30 am
Just did strict way. Was chasing the numbers,and running out of time!
don't know how you sleep at night after using that 'not-block'/block, not only is it a chockstone it's also covered in mud and grass!
Did you do it to the high RH handhold at the top rather than the lower more obvious hold on the left? I assume Travs' original goes to the top high and right. Eliminating the arete seems obvious, but specifying which bit of the top you get seems very contrived to me.
Tried yesterday but it was too warm to be boning that tiny sharp slot. Felt like it would be 7b (to obvious jug at top left) if conditions ok.

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#17 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 10:44:37 am
I finished on the obvious jug. Is that what is meant by not veering left?!!!!
Really?
That is very very contrived!

r-man

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#18 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 12:06:37 pm
Correct, the jug isn't in for the hard version. I thought the same as you two, but after talking to Neil I thought I'd better try just to see. Once you've done the move it actually seems the more obvious way - get crimps, quickly step feet up smears then BANG! for the top. Not as awkward as rocking out left. Don't know whether it's easier or harder as I've only done the left version using the arete foothold.

I did argue the point about eliminate-ness with Neil (see Baslow thread) but whether it's contrived or not, the move is certainly much better if you go straight for the top.

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#19 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 12:27:07 pm
I suppose it wont be must different as I BANGED for the left jug and got my elbow over it so maybe I should BANG a bit more straight up. (She bangs she bangs. Maybe it should be called Ricky Martin)
To be honest though, it's illogical and pointless cos the Left jug is in a perfect place for a finishing jug. There is nothing about it which screams 'not in', except the rules.

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#20 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 12:46:38 pm
You're BANG on there.

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#21 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 01:44:51 pm
this sounds like a load of bullshit. is there a 'no thumbs' rule too?

this is golf you people. GOLF.


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#22 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 02:04:25 pm
Hey there people lets keep eliminates to Stoney and Pinches wall please. There is nothing more irritating than climbing a problem and then realising that you didn't (I refer to Zippy's Problem at Minus 10 by way of illustration).

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#23 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 02:12:23 pm
 It's on my list at 7b using no arete and any top. Using the arete is an eliminate on the crack, which is about VD. You can't have it both ways. If no rules/eliminates are allowed on grit then this problem doesn't exist, it's just a bad sequence on a V Diff crack

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#24 Re: Baslow recent additions
April 23, 2008, 02:25:51 pm
I agree. Indulge me and perhaps I can have one tiny rule here. Where the eliminate nature of the problem is such that an obvious adjacent feature overshadows the whole problem, that feature is eliminated and a classic problem results then that is cool. For example Play Hard falls into this category as does the 'Blobsloper' eliminate at Curbar. However, where the eliminate involves missing out specific holds than that gets the  :thumbsdown:.

 

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